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182-C Camshaft Set - Nissan RB26DETT - Kelford Cams these are the camshafts i got if anyone else is using these please let me know if i need to grind the casting down on the head for these cams or just a shim job for valve clearance? im sure ill find out when they show up but any advice in advance would be helpful. im exhausted from research lol

28 minutes ago, BK said:

Big boy cams hey ?

hey ben, yeah i blacked out. full supertech valve train double spring 182-C Camshaft Set - Nissan RB26DETT - Kelford Cams i dont think i need to grind the casting for these cams but forsure reshim obviously. i was thinking about what you said no point in going for a mild cam mise well stay stock cam at that point, or go the whole nine yards. so i said fak it and just did it man. the cams i got are the ones i posted 272/272 10mm lift. i did this all not so much as to make my head rev all crazy and make crazy power, but more as a refreshment and a increase in seat pressure for my boost. the kit was a great price and seemed like a no brainer. 1400canadain.  hks camshafts in bin. just kidding will try to sell them. i am just a stupid canadian but i feel like my engine will be a good setup in the end for a descent budget. cheers mate thanks again glad you pushed me to kelford great service too they were nice to me.

No, you absolutely will need to machine / grind out the area where the lobes are in the head. Not a big deal really, but they will hit without modification. My Camtechs we trial fitted in the white 32 hit with 9.7mm of lift, and they stated their max drop in was 9.5mm.

You'll see what I mean when you try and rotate them when they're bolted in. Kelfords themselves even say only their L182 version cams at 8.7mm are the only bolt in, no modification.

Good stuff still 👍

Just now, BK said:

No, you absolutely will need to machine / grind out the area where the lobes are in the head. Not a big deal really, but they will hit without modification. My Camtechs we trial fitted in the white 32 hit with 9.7mm of lift, and they stated their max drop in was 9.5mm.

You'll see what I mean when you try and rotate them when they're bolted in. Kelfords themselves even say only their L182 version cams at 8.7mm are the only.

Good stuff still 👍

beauty mate, thanks for getting me on track today i was a f**king mess doing circles with my build...

18 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

1.3 head restrictor

Feel free to ignore, but I personally would go smaller if your motor will be sat high in the RPM all the time.

I was running a N1 pump, with Spool billet gears on my RB25 NEO and it would fill the cam covers, spit out into the catch can and also drain the 6.5Ln ASR baffled sump around high G corners at the track.

Killed my motor after 2x track days.

  • Thanks 1

 

11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Feel free to ignore, but I personally would go smaller if your motor will be sat high in the RPM all the time.

I was running a N1 pump, with Spool billet gears on my RB25 NEO and it would fill the cam covers, spit out into the catch can and also drain the 6.5Ln ASR baffled sump around high G corners at the track.

Killed my motor after 2x track days.

Agree with Dose pipe 100%. I used to run a 1.5mm Tomei on the first busted 2.8 but changed to a Nitto 1.1mm on current block. I think Nitto goes even smaller to 0.9mm now ?

5 hours ago, BK said:

 

Agree with Dose pipe 100%. I used to run a 1.5mm Tomei on the first busted 2.8 but changed to a Nitto 1.1mm on current block. I think Nitto goes even smaller to 0.9mm now ?

thanks again mates. without you guys there's no way i would of tackled this. 1.1 restrictor nitto on route. wanna keep my manual transmission was thinking of doing a 1-5 rebuild just dont know which company to go with yet. i know my gearbox wont last... i have 2 r33 transmissions that i can play with both in great shape.

Off to the shop to check out some nice head work by Rashid(lots left)before we machine the surface and send all the head parts for wpc treatment.

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Was weighing out my rods this morning at the shop and found something that raised my attention....I am wpc treating the rods so I don’t think it’s a huge deal. But I’m a newb so to the knowledgeable mates wouldn’t mind your 2 or 3 cents, even 4 cents if I’m lucky haha, Cheers. I’m either binning the whole set of rods or running the ones I got not messing around with ordering a single.  The last photo is what all the other rods look like on both sides. Fakin pissed about this but may be no issue. 

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Well a nice casual -44 today lol so no trees went for a nice rip in the ol rusty sti and Finally got my full valve train from super tech today. Double valve springs, super tech valves, buckets,guides, blah blah. Once the kelford 272 10 lift cams show up will have the head finished. Big box of prp parts showed up today too sooo some nice rb26 porn in that box too I’ll post it once I crack the cardboard open.

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  • Like 1

Get that rod crack tested !

If that's a crack your stuffed if its a fault in the forging/casting of the rod, it may be ok . . . . .

However if the rods faulty in any way it will lunch your engine !

You've gotta ask yourself are you feeling lucky ?

Cause I don't remember if you've got 5 or 6 good rods or six . . . . 

So are you felling lucky ?

( and now apologies to Clint Eastwood / Dirty Harry Movies )

11 minutes ago, PLYNX said:

Get that rod crack tested !

If that's a crack your stuffed if its a fault in the forging/casting of the rod, it may be ok . . . . .

However if the rods faulty in any way it will lunch your engine !

You've gotta ask yourself are you feeling lucky ?

Cause I don't remember if you've got 5 or 6 good rods or six . . . . 

So are you felling lucky ?

( and now apologies to Clint Eastwood / Dirty Harry Movies )

its definitely not a crack but more or less a scuff on the outside as if you were removing a bit of material to balance them. i know weakness in surface of any metal is like a crack in a window keeps getting worse then fails. but it seems to be a very small surface scuff and i think the wpc treatment will take care of it. research the wpc treatment if you are unfamiliar. the discolouring line from the small scuff is from wat ever scuffed the rod its not a crack just may look like that in picture. i think it just lightly touched something when being packaged.

On 19/01/2021 at 7:57 PM, PLYNX said:

Get that rod crack tested !

If that's a crack your stuffed if its a fault in the forging/casting of the rod, it may be ok . . . . .

However if the rods faulty in any way it will lunch your engine !

You've gotta ask yourself are you feeling lucky ?

Cause I don't remember if you've got 5 or 6 good rods or six . . . . 

So are you felling lucky ?

( and now apologies to Clint Eastwood / Dirty Harry Movies )

real st performance in Florida took the entire kit back and sent me back a kit with way better rods and cp pistons with a 9.0.1 compression at no charge so worked out in the end. there legit and always help there customers so that was nice.

Well we finally got a bay open and started tearing out the motor and transmission for the single build. Lots of prp goodies soon to be posted. Gunna run the stock motor this year at 22 psi then throw in the built long block we are building right now at machine shop. and then full send mates. Dead broke loving every minute of it.

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Well we finally got the rb out 5 hours later uhhh duuhhhh pulled I don’t know how many rb’s I seem to forget to take the shifter off everytime lol. Oh well went real quick once I finally realized I forgot to pull the shifter. Went till midnight and we were greeting with some more nice parts. Start stripping motor in am and will keep posted.

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  • Like 1

non of this would be possible without help from my old time friend rashid. he is a 20 year fabricator, engine builder, tuner, and project manager ofcar trasnformation like mine. nice quiet guy that has built some really nice supras in the past so i figured id suck him to the dark side of the rb world.  we pulled this thing like a couple farmers was nice and entertaining

  • Like 1

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