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10 hours ago, BK said:

It's alive !

it is ben but not that well lol. it seems to me like the timing keeps jumping around no matter what we do. it starts really nice every time then as i watch it running with the timing light it starts to jump around like crazy after 5 seconds and wants to die. almost like the trigger kit is jumping between 2 teeth and doesnt have  a set home between 2 teeth or something i dunno mates. we tried for about 5 hours of different timing settings and what not. there is a error code on the haltech for the trigger kit. been wrenching non stop for 3 days maybe just tired but any help of info on this always appreciated. im a total newb on tuning but im pretty sure we have the ignition set at like 230 out of the full 720 cycle if that makes sense. im tripping out the car seems like its going to run great then timing jumps around and it starts blowing black like a diesel and fowls the plugs instantly and dies. you can here it start popping and being wierd in the video that was actually the best it ran. we have been through 4 sets of plugs (tourched these sets probably 10 times to so more like 40 times and im not kidding all night of tourching plugs and trying stuff. i just wanna go fast this cars kicking my ass.

This may have something to do with it. I’ve found 1 connector I don’t know where it goes, and I also found a “ground” that may be a power wire. It’s located near stock battery location area. Cheers mates let me know your thoughts.

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well looks like we figured this haltech with the prp trigger kit issue out. the bracket for the cherry by the crank was rubbing on the crank pulley when it turned so hopefully once we put back together properly its well again. so just a heads up for you newbs putting prp trigger kits on your rb26. it is a possibily of rubbing on crank pulley if installed incorrectly. cheers mates hopefully video of 22psi soon.

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, Duncan said:

glad it is working...but I'm pretty sure I mentioned spacing out the cam sensor a few pages back 😛

yeah  i recon....i thought you were talking about those 3 little spacers on the back of the trigger kit up top where the old cas used to be. living and learning haha! again thanks for all your help good friend your a patient good guy that doesnt post useless comments and make a guy feel bad for not being as knowledgable as others. cheers buddy.

Dropped her off for a wheel alignment today and some fresh ball joints up front and away we go mates! Finally get to drive my dream 20 years later since I owned my first Gtr I’ve always wanted a gtr that was an animal that I built myself....ish with a lot of help lol. So heres my chance. It’s not perfect but it was definitely the best I could do for the cash I had. I have a great wife that has supported me through this build and all my crap so thanks again my good mate I love you and will always have your back cheers.

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  • Like 1
On 26/03/2021 at 7:15 PM, BK said:

It's alive !

Now it’s alive mate. And of course as soon as we are ready to tune we get 100km winds plus this lol....had mint roads now a bunch of snow. But that don’t stop the Canadians, Went for spark plugs this morning and seen a balling r35 just sending the snow. Nice to see at 8am 

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Just  got her running on 12 psi, she is no longer a giant paper weight mates. Gunna put some serious boost at it today with e85 and hopefully this car can finally light the lamp against some hellcats. 

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i may not be down under like the boys in australia but my bank account is defintiely wayyyyy down under lol....ordered another CAS from kudo today to solve the car not starting when its hot hopefully. could be tuning but my CAS sounds like it has rocks in it and has no resistance when i spin it so could use a replacement anyway. if you have run into this hot start no start issue let me know. it will eventually start but i have to crank it like crazy or wait for a couple minutes and let it cool down then it fires right up

Congrats on making RBs great again, none of this twin bullshit 😊

Did you space out the CAS when you ran the motor with no timing belt cover? If not you'll eat up CAS units all day.

I remember calling Nissan about a new CAS (before the GT-R boom), they wanted $2,000 (had to wait for it to come from Japan). Got a second hand one off fatz for $50 (wasn't an issue, was the AFM)s. But yeah, be careful with those, they cost a pretty penny these days :P

Ordered a new cas from kudo even tho going to try the prp trigger again. we have been tuning like crazy last few days. I am forsure going to have my timing cover back on and yes I have the spacers behind the cas. I have the stock cas seal behind there and the little spacers are inside it. We are going to go back to the prp trigger once the new hall sensor gets here....all was well at 16 psi today and then this happened.....I’m probably the first reporter of this but that’s my luck, the car always tries to kill me. Snapped by gktech bar clean off at 140km and well I’m sure you could imagine what that was like mates, fricken back and worth 10 times before I got the prick of a thing to settle down.

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good old gtr was dragging that bar the whole way home for 25km on the shoulder lol. champion. gotta contact gktech and find out why the hell this happened. if anyone has a lead on a better kit out there be my guest and let me know because im tripping out this gktech kit now...

2 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

gotta contact gktech and find out why the hell this happened.

My suggestion is.....when you tightened it up you ended up with the spherical joint hard up against one side. You have to be real careful with these to make sure that the ball is centred when the arm is on, tight and sitting at ride height. If it is hard up against one side, or has very little travel left on one side, then when you move the joint in that direction it changes from a beraring to a pin joint instantly and you get all the torque on tha arm applied across the section of the thread.

  • Like 2
7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Damn!

Here I was going to buy everything GKTech (running a mix of yumcha arms & Hard Race ones, mainly rose joints and flogged from 5+ years of track work)

i really dont want to be the newb that says gktech stuff is no good cause shit does happen... i have all the rest of there stuff and i am the first reporter of this. i feel like i did something wrong like a) we took it for a real good drive before the wheel alignment was dont and the car was super toed in at the time(to the point where the tires were feathering from brand new), or b) i did drive it a bit and the nuts at the end of the bars were not tightened down completely, then we did the alignment and tightened em down good and the bars broke 100km later. i could easily not say all this stuff but want to be honest as i dont think it was the kits fault i think the wheel alignment should of been done right off the bat. but a broken bar cause of that seems nuts to me.  i feel like the old steering rack is stronger than this kit.....looks like a cheap metal ill send better pics. 

 

6 hours ago, BK said:

Holy shit dude....you and this car are not very good friends at all.

Midori Seibi would be my vote for a different / better quality Hicas delete kit.

benny boy ya good mate hows this for an idea...we are going to take the kit to a machine shop that makes drives shafts etc today and have them make the exact same kit but in a chromoly steel. or just try another gktech bar and do as gtsboy said...seemed like a pretty decent answer. kit could of been installed wrong from the start maybe i dunnno chap. Moral of the story is my gtr hates me and im scared of it every time i get it running right she blacks out and tries to stick me under the dirt...

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