Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But does anyone know if you could put a de exhaust on a det neo and just put a pod on the end of the intake manifold 

with a tune of course 

No point doing an exhaust or pod filter on non turbo motors. Nothing to be gained except noise and a lighter wallet. 

A bit of advice, google search all your questions and once you have exhausted that option then post in here. 

like having a turbo is obvious to the bois in blue but unless they’ve studied the car they really won’t know what parts there looking at

so what I’m gunna do is get a det neo engine block, gtt drivetrain and brakes etc

and I’m gunna put my stroker kit and bore it out and put the performance head on but take of the turbo and intercooler and put on my gt exhaust system and intake on and hopefully I might be in the 170kw range

if not it doesn’t really mater because I can put a really good turbo system on and run a solid psi without worrying about my engine internals when I get my second p’s

what are your thoughts on this

and no I’m not gunna keep this car stock until I can drive a turbo and save up for a gtt if that’s what u where gunna say

thanks jack

Ah. 16 year olds and their endless supplies of enthusiasm, money and unwillingness to listen to those who have learnt from making those same mistakes.

My tip is put the Skyline in the shed and don't drive it and instead drive a $200 FWD shitbox for 2 years. Who's going to be paying for the insurance on this R34 of yours while you drive in illegally modified on your L's and P's?

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 3

Actually I’m not gunna insure it yet lol

ive been driving since I was 6 and haven’t crashed a single vehicle 

not saying that I won’t crash but it’s a risk I’m gunna take, don’t roast me?

I’m working as an assistant at job sites doing work whenever I can and making 20 an hour which is pretty good

It's not a troll, but its a combination of inexperience really, which is fine, we all start there.

The first thing any cop will look for is a 20 year old import with a P plate on it.
The problem is a non turbo skyline, of any kind, in any form, is a completely shit performance vehicle.

Get an 86. Turbo that when you're legally allowed.

Source: Had NA+T, then 2.9 liter stroker kit (is yours brian crower too?) then built auto, then manual, then 5 different turbo choices, now have Legal V8.

Any idea you could possibly have, has been done. Some people like myself have done all of them!

You should listen to these people.
Alternatively, make mistakes and waste money.
These are solved problems by now.

  • Like 1

Yeah your all right

i had my whole build planned out but I never really thought about what has already been tried 

I’ve done a lot of body work on this car and I got it for only $4000 
 

I’ve cleaned and polished every part of this car but apart from a k and n pod filter everything other than body work is stock so I’m not having much thought about getting a gtt now

i would really like to keep this gt and just swap it later on for a det neo

should I just keep it stock and clean and put some good brakes and a solid shift kit on and det neo swap it when I get my full license

thanks 

jack

 

And no im not rich but I’ve got a decent job for my age and yes I will get insurance

was a decision I made on the spot and didn’t think through 

sorry for not listening to you guys 

Thanks

jack

?

Ok thanks mate 

saved me alota time and money

any suggestions on tires, suspension and brakes

am goin with the classic 19 te37 ultra track edition I recon

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...