Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey what's up y'all, I'm new to the fourms but came on here due to frustration and a misfiring RB26. My 1992 Skyline GTR has a misfire that seems to be random. It does not happen upon could start from what I can tell. Checked the computer codes and they flashed all clear. I pulled the plugs and saw they were covered in black soot, some worse than others but all generally dirty. Replaced them with some iridium plugs from NGK gapped at .8, and that didn't fix it, then put some used but nice Splitfire coils on it, which seemed to maybe help a little but it could be placebo, also seemed to not wanna start with those coils in and low idle. The car is drivable but feels down on power and the misfire is pretty constant throughout the rev range. Only other thing I notice is she spits black smoke and it leaves these carbon specs all over the rear end. Maybe she's running too rich? I'm stumped and don't wanna put any money into it until I know what's wrong. Anyone have an idea? Thanks alot!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479778-r32-gtr-random-misfire/
Share on other sites

2nd hand coils are not a diagnostic tool.

The other half of the ignition electronics is the igniter pack. It sits up on top of the motor getting cooked for 30 years.....it doesn't last forever.

The other other half is the coil pack wiring loom/connectors.

The other other other half is...how healthy is your alternator, battery voltage, when running?

The other other other half is that it could be a whole bunch of other things, from worn out CAS bearings, to an intercooler pipe/hose blown open (and hence running rich). But I would bet that the running rich shit is simply caused by the missing. If the fuel don't burn, because it wasn't lit, it looks rich.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

2nd hand coils are not a diagnostic tool.

The other half of the ignition electronics is the igniter pack. It sits up on top of the motor getting cooked for 30 years.....it doesn't last forever.

The other other half is the coil pack wiring loom/connectors.

The other other other half is...how healthy is your alternator, battery voltage, when running?

The other other other half is that it could be a whole bunch of other things, from worn out CAS bearings, to an intercooler pipe/hose blown open (and hence running rich). But I would bet that the running rich shit is simply caused by the missing. If the fuel don't burn, because it wasn't lit, it looks rich.

Well that's my problem, I've done a lot of research but nothing really points to how I can test it to be sure. Voltage should be fine, is there any way I can pin point something like the harness or igniter before spending money on them? 

Take to a mechanic that has a dyno so you can test it under load with gas analyser up the spout, and look for spitzensparks around the coils and pull coil plugs off to see which is missing and then swap stuff around to see if the miss follows the coil or stays with the cylinder. And then swap to known good coils and/or ignitor. Just the usual things.

There is nothing more frustrating than remote control misfire diagnosis. Nothing beats having someone who knows what they're lookign at actually look at it while it's running.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan:- it affect both sides.  Driver side is worse.
    • That seems like a very special issue!  Does it affect both sides? Either way, I would disconnect the driver's side switch and see if it still happens, noting that might require removal of the whole door card which is a bit of a pain (it does on V37 and HY51)  
    • MBS206:- The windows start to slowly open themselves. GTSBoy:- Battery is new since Dec. 
    • I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT.  I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?
    • The consult isn't even OBD1. It's a Nissan Consult. Proprietary.   Re read everything I've said. I specifically say, put down the laptop/tablet. Understand, and review the issue first. Logging voltages is the same as logging the converted value. Things like O2 that you say to log, is unusable for this, whether it be the voltage, or the value the ECU thinks.   The fact you don't know how to diagnose without looking at the computer, is exactly what I've said multiple times is the issue for why techs these days can't diagnose the fun issues with cars.
×
×
  • Create New...