R32 GTR RB26DETT

[Jjtxaz24]

I looked online and couldn't find a way to make a boost leak tester for the stock RB26 turbo layout. 

I was thinking caping one of the MAFs and using the other as the one to allow me to pressurize the system. Trying to make sure I'm good before I go and dial her in on a dyno with a tune. 

Another question... I rebuilt the internals on the stock turbos and had em balanced and I do build boost as I was before but now I hear them spool up inside the cabin. Sounds kinda like a jet engine type sound. That normal? Just making sure. 

[GTSBoy]

New wheels may well sound different.

As to the leak tester.....just block both turbo inlets as you would on a single. You can't leak test from the MAFs inwards, because there's a lot of connections between the turbo inlet pipes and the crankcase.

[Duncan]

The traditional japanese method involves a 1kg fire extinguisher in one inlet at the AFM, and an oil filter with no internals and a hole drilled in the top for the pressure source

[Jjtxaz24]

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

New wheels may well sound different.

As to the leak tester.....just block both turbo inlets as you would on a single. You can't leak test from the MAFs inwards, because there's a lot of connections between the turbo inlet pipes and the crankcase.

I think that may be it. Bit paranoid never had a turbo car before. Always NA with nitrous, I wanna make sure I tidy her up and get her tuned. Shes ideling at a 15.6-15.8 when shes warm. Thought that was a little high. 

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

The traditional japanese method involves a 1kg fire extinguisher in one inlet at the AFM, and an oil filter with no internals and a hole drilled in the top for the pressure source

Those japs are crazy. I'm gonna see what I can whip up to do the same. 

[GTSBoy]

Plastic plumbing fittings are often available in the right sizes.

[Jjtxaz24]

What's the normal ideling AFRs for a pretty stock R32 GTR. It's got intakes, tomei poncams and the rebuilt stock turbos with stock dumps, and 3 in down pipe and exhaust. 

Its sitting around 15.4-15.8 at idle when warm.

[Ben C34]

37 minutes ago, Jjtxaz24 said:

What's the normal ideling AFRs for a pretty stock R32 GTR. It's got intakes, tomei poncams and the rebuilt stock turbos with stock dumps, and 3 in down pipe and exhaust. 

Its sitting around 15.4-15.8 at idle when warm.

Should be in closed loop and at 14. 7

 

Is it misfiring at all?

[Jjtxaz24]

It had and I changed out the coil a fixed the issue.

I have some ls2 coils but havent put em in yet because I dont know how to change the dwell time.

How do I check it's in closed loop? I do have a nistune, with software and the cable to look at the ECU.

[GTSBoy]

5 hours ago, Jjtxaz24 said:

How do I check it's in closed loop? I do have a nistune, with software and the cable to look at the ECU

If you have Nistune, then just look at the feedback gauges. O2 sensor needs to be flicking between nearly 0v and nearly 1v every second or so, to be in closed loop. If it's not, then there is probably something wrong with your O2 sensor, or a moron has turned off feedback!

[Jjtxaz24]

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If you have Nistune, then just look at the feedback gauges. O2 sensor needs to be flicking between nearly 0v and nearly 1v every second or so, to be in closed loop. If it's not, then there is probably something wrong with your O2 sensor, or a moron has turned off feedback!

Sounds easy enough. I'll give it a look later today. 

[Jjtxaz24]

So I think I might have bent some valves. I havent troubleshooted it yet but I wanted to get your thoughts on it. Happened later in the day and I leave out of town for work tomorrow. 

The video isn't much of a visual more of a sound clip. When I unplug cylinder 6 I can hear the clicking stop. When I plug it back in it comes back. I can feel it by the throttle cable.

I was merging onto a road and got on it. Nothing different from other days. Went from 2nd to 3rd and then I felt it lose power, I didn't wanna force it so I limped it home and stayed out of boost with cylinder 6 coil unplugged. Felt and sounded like a misfire (something I've been working on and off with [bad coils]) I had it sorted it out before all this and it was running good. I was gettin it tuned this week. 

 

Edited April 15, 2020 by Jjtxaz24

[GTSBoy]

Take the coil and plug out and look for evidence of arcing. You could have a spark leak in there, which could make that click, and of course would feel like a misfire. Clean it all up and maybe try swapping coil to another cylinder to see if it follows.

It is VERY unlikely that you would have bent a valve. The cam profiles are reasonably gentle, the valve springs are good for very high revs, and there isn't a history of it being a problem on stockish RB26s.

If you have done any damage that has "dropped a valve" it would be more likely that that you had a lean event or pinging that damaged the valve or seat, leading to noise and misfire.

Edited April 15, 2020 by GTSBoy

[Jjtxaz24]

On 4/14/2020 at 10:25 PM, GTSBoy said:

Take the coil and plug out and look for evidence of arcing. You could have a spark leak in there, which could make that click, and of course would feel like a misfire. Clean it all up and maybe try swapping coil to another cylinder to see if it follows.

It is VERY unlikely that you would have bent a valve. The cam profiles are reasonably gentle, the valve springs are good for very high revs, and there isn't a history of it being a problem on stockish RB26s.

If you have done any damage that has "dropped a valve" it would be more likely that that you had a lean event or pinging that damaged the valve or seat, leading to noise and misfire.

I got around to taking off the coils and harness. replaced it with the LS coils and the harness. the issue was the same. The old plug in cylinder 6 was all black. The other 5 were nice and clean.

I ran a compression test and I had the following numbers:

I ended up swapping back to the stock coils and wiring harness and the issue still persisted. I connected to Nistune and there was an error to check my CAS. I cleared it and it popped up again. Cleared it once more and clicked on Self Learn on Nistune and it hasnt come back but the car is still not running as it should.

there was I think 21 and 22 in there as faults. I cant remember as I cleared them and they havent come back up. 

 

Edited April 25, 2020 by Jjtxaz24

[KiwiRS4T]

That difference doesn't look enough for bent valves.

In case you haven't already looked it up 21 is ignition signal and 22 is fuel pump.

Have you thought of swapping the no 6 injector to a different location?

[Jjtxaz24]

8 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

That difference doesn't look enough for bent valves.

In case you haven't already looked it up 21 is ignition signal and 22 is fuel pump.

Have you thought of swapping the no 6 injector to a different location?

No, it's a good difference between cylinders. Car was compression checked cold so maybe after a warmup itd be a little higher. 

I hadnt been able to find the codes. I got frustrated and gave up on it. Tomorrow I'll swap that injector to another location and hope I dont break em in doing so. 

 

*apologize for the pics being so big  I came back to repost a better picture of all 6 in one but it didnt let me edit the post anymore. 

[Jjtxaz24]

Didn't have much time to troubleshoot but I got the fuel rail off and checked the Injectors. I did an ohm test and all 6 were at 2.7 ohms, before I took em out I checked all 6 with a stethoscope and I can hear them clicking. 

I need to rig up an injector system to clean them out. Minus well since they're already out. 

Anything else I can check?

[Ben C34]

That ignition code comes up when there is an ignition issue obviously, but it also comes up when you change to ls coils. The error needs to be turned off, but it doesn't cause any problems at all.

[Jjtxaz24]

On 4/25/2020 at 11:27 PM, Ben C34 said:

That ignition code comes up when there is an ignition issue obviously, but it also comes up when you change to ls coils. The error needs to be turned off, but it doesn't cause any problems at all.

Still havent had time to put the injectors back in. I tested them all and they are reading at 2.7 ohms, then i put power to them I can hear them clicking. I was going to make a DIY injector cleaning thing but I havent. Im pretty sure the injectors are good. 

[Jjtxaz24]

I cleaned all the injectors out and placed them all back in. Im still having the same issue. I found a hose that I think goes plugged into the back near where the Fuel rail is. I looked over the vacuum diagram and its not on there. Here's some pics. I tried to make it as clear as possible as to not get you all confused:  

I plugged in the hose while it was running and it seemed to lower the sound of the clicking but I can still hear it and it is still misfiring. 

What is the little block on the firewall (has the red arrow pointing at it) that has the vacuum lines tee'd off to my boost gauge and (what i think is) the boost sensor (it did have an after market boost controller, currently unplugged).

Im hurting here... lol, cant seem to figure this out and its kicking my ass. I dont just wanna start throwing parts at it. 

The LS COILS and harness is not on, Im still using the stock harness and coils.

 

[Duncan]

Big red arrow to square box is the factory MAP sensor, just runs the factory boost gauge. Small red arrow thing on the right is aftermarket but probably for aftermarket boost control.

yes, green arrow should plug into back of manifold balance pipe, if it was off that is a problem. It is a crappy hose on a crappy fitting with no lip so it is easy to blow it off under boost, small cable tie can help