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Hey guys, 

Currently, I'm in the process of building my GTR R32. (It's at the mechanics) and I want experienced members of this forum to comment give me advice on what to use to achieve 400-450kw.

Here's the mod list (red highlighted items are the missing parts at the moment)

image.png.65c885de6421e380e7824af33c719070.png

I believe the car also has a r33 gearbox (I believe r33 boxes are a lot more stronger than r32's) please correct me if I am wrong.

Anything I should be aware of? 

Thanks in advance.

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Yes.

33 GTR boxes are not stronger than 32. 450rwkw will break a stock box in the end.

Cams are arguably too much duration. Duration moves power up the rev range remember ?

Don't waste your time changing from factory radiator unless you are going to track the car.

Someone will definitely say to use a different turbo than what you're suggesting to something better for your power goals.

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Thank you for your recommendations mate I appreciate it. What turbo would you recommend? I have the stock radiator but two mechanics that I’ve went to both said I’ll need a full aluminium radiator. 
 

4 hours ago, BK said:

Yes.

33 GTR boxes are not stronger than 32. 450rwkw will break a stock box in the end.

Cams are arguably too much duration. Duration moves power up the rev range remember ?

Don't waste your time changing from factory radiator unless you are going to track the car.

Someone will definitely say to use a different turbo than what you're suggesting to something better for your power goals.

 

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9 hours ago, BK said:

Yes.

33 GTR boxes are not stronger than 32. 450rwkw will break a stock box in the end.

Cams are arguably too much duration. Duration moves power up the rev range remember ?

Don't waste your time changing from factory radiator unless you are going to track the car.

Someone will definitely say to use a different turbo than what you're suggesting to something better for your power goals.

good info there I think if your not launching your car all the time you will get a descent life out of your gearbox. I run 450whp and drag on weekends, drive my car all week and have had great luck with my gearbox. curious as to why people would argue the turbo? should easily achieve the horsepower with a great power band on a gt35 no?

Edited by MoMnDadGTR
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Again I’m only going by the recommendation from my mechanic but I’m also open for different options, at the end of the day it’s my car?
 

no I won’t be taking the car to tracks etc. it’ll be a weekend cruiser. 

Showed this to my mechanic and he said it’s too big for my build. 
 

09D4AB4F-C9AA-4F60-9A11-986E94686FFF.jpeg

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He's probably right about the 9180 turbo being too big for your aim. I think the EFR camp would probably be saying an 8374 and now the G series Garrett's are out something from that line. Look the GTX turbo will do the job fine though, but now is your opportunity to get on the latest turbo since you haven't bought it yet.

Radiator, well it's absolutely bullshit needing a different one unless the car is repeatedly heat soaked in the track. The standard one is outstanding. Changing radiators can really open up a can of worms as most aftermarket ones are shit. The only ones I have had good results from are PWR and Koyo.

Regarding the box, they don't break on the launch as 1st and 2nd is actually quite strong. It's 3rd. Rolling power shifts will break it at that power level eventually, I've done quite a few of them and been a long time since I've had a standard box.

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I was going to buy a Koyorad radiator but I've also found a brand new OEM radiator with shroud and fan for $200. Kinda stuck now thinking of what to do lol

What would be your recommendation for the turbo? GTX3582R is pretty much priced between $2700 - $3200.

I was actually researching about this issue on the forum and came to release its the 3rd gear that is giving up instead of 1st or 2nd which is pretty weird haha. Anything I can do to the box to reinforce that isn't going to cost me arm and a leg?

 

 

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get what ever rad floats your boat wont make a difference...as far as turbo your gunna hear 25 different things. garrett has been making turbos forever cant go wrong and they come with the proper restrictior for the oil inlet. they fit nice to a 6 boost manifold. don't over think it m8. compression test the motor make sure all your fuel and ignition are ready for boost....hit the dyno. never heard a bad thing about the garrett35x series.

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1 minute ago, oktaytrz said:

might start looking for a spare gearbox?

BK knows his stuff. I would definitely listen to his input. has helped me in the past quickly and efficiently.

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I have someone recommending me to upgrade the oil pump gears and also fit a crank collar on your crank to convert it from short to long nose. 

Is this necessary for the power I'm chasing? If so, why?

Any information will be greatly appreciated. 

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Because standard gears are sintered metal, are shit and will break. Billet gears or different pump recommended. But if you go bigger flow pump, then you really should be getting a bigger sump. Spirals out of control doesn't it ?

 

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I literally just went through this with my gtr.  The billet gears are super easy to install. I just used my stock oil pump because of sump issues etc.  I was getting all ready to have an extended nose collar machined on,  to find out that I already had extended nose. 93 and later gtrs all have the extended collar already. I would definitely recommend changing the gears out on the pump as its not the power that destroys them its the rpm. and yeah extended collar forsure if you want reliability. 

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R33 GTR series 3 synchro update, but it's not any stronger.

Correct answer, next step up over standard GTR box is OS giken or Pfitzner (PPG) 5 speed helical synchro Gearset which uses series 3 synchros anyway.

Or R34 Getrag 6 speed.

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I enjoy my Mishimotor Radiator with the stock Clutch fan and GKtech fan blade... but what ever you decide to do though, do NOT buy the mishimoto electric fan. its garbage and is better off meant to cool a computer or somthing.

If you have the engine out the car and in pieces and offcourse... the coin to do so, My best recommendation would be to get a Nitto extended crank collar and a high end Harmonic Balancer.

You will eliminate the Achilles heel of the RB's and sleep better at night knowing that you wont have shit harmonics at high rpm and broken oil pump gears that literally go hand in hand with each other.  

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ive seen a lot of guys running stock crank pulley on rb26 over 500hp, as well as myself no issues. you are forsure correct though obviously cant go wrong with an expensive balancer especially if your raping it at 8000rpm all the time.

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