Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 07/07/2020 at 1:37 PM, oktaytrz said:

Update

Getting Haltech Elite 2000 instead of the Platinum Pro. 

this car is costing a looooot more than my expectations ?

Whatever you first “budgeted”, ATLEAST double it to begin with.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
On 11/07/2020 at 7:12 AM, Piggaz said:

Whatever you first “budgeted”, ATLEAST double it to begin with.

 

On 11/07/2020 at 5:13 PM, Shyboy said:

Welcome to the rabbit hole ?

I'm going to have to agree with the statements above ?

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE: 

-Cams went in this week and valve clearances etc all checked.

-Ordered Gates Racing Timing Belt

-Painted the brake booster and all other small bits and pieces - will upload pics soon. 

-Engine is scheduled to go back in by end of next week (hopefully) lol

 

Am thinking of buying Tuff engine mounts. would appreciate any feedback on these before I purchase it. 

http://musclegarage.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=117

On 23/07/2020 at 2:41 PM, oktaytrz said:

 

Am thinking of buying Tuff engine mounts. would appreciate any feedback on these before I purchase it. 

http://musclegarage.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=117

broke nismo ones frequently, tuff mounts are the way to go

On 25/07/2020 at 12:41 PM, hattori hanzo said:

broke nismo ones frequently, tuff mounts are the way to go

Purchased the Tuff mounts :)

I have a question for everyone here..

Haltech Elite 2000 vs Link G4 Fury plug in.

What are the differences, advantages and disadvantages? there's a significant price difference between the two.

 

I have not used a Haltech,

 

However have a Link G4+

 

I find the functionality and interface easy for myself to setup different things i.e. launch control adjust rev limits and boost by gear.

Logging is comprehensive and easy to use / download / analyse.

 

Ultimately depends who is tuning your car and what they want to use.

  • Thanks 1
42 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

I have not used a Haltech,

 

 

 

However have a Link G4+

 

 

 

I find the functionality and interface easy for myself to setup different things i.e. launch control adjust rev limits and boost by gear.

 

Logging is comprehensive and easy to use / download / analyse.

 

 

 

Ultimately depends who is tuning your car and what they want to use.

 

Who is your tuner mate if you don’t mind me asking?

3 hours ago, oktaytrz said:

Who is your tuner mate if you don’t mind me asking?

Rob @ SSC

He isn't a very big shop, but very thorough looks after a few targa guys.

Probably need to update my SAU build thread, will get to it

  • Like 1

UPDATE:

Tuff engine mounts arrived today. Will be dropping the gates timing belt to the mechanics shop today or tomorrow!

The engine should be going in this week ? more photos to follow later this week. 

Started polishing the exhaust. Still have heaps to do and will have to grind the welding joint to make it look half decent. 

 

On 27/07/2020 at 8:52 AM, oktaytrz said:

Purchased the Tuff mounts :)

I have a question for everyone here..

Haltech Elite 2000 vs Link G4 Fury plug in.

What are the differences, advantages and disadvantages? there's a significant price difference between the two.

 

 

The Fury isn't a plug-in, the plug-in is equivalent to the G4+ Xtreme (which is basically the same as the Fury but doesn't have onboard wideband control). 

 

In all honesty, comparing ECU's can get a bit confusing at face value. You need to know what you want from the ECU. If you need specific functions like knock control, launch control, traction control, wideband control, data logging, etc, then you can look at the ECU's capabilities and pick one. This is really for guys using their car for motorsport, because that is really the only situation where you might be thinking "ok, I could shave a bit of time off if my ECU could do X or Y". For a street car, where you just want good resolution to have accurate control of the engine and perhaps some safety features, then pretty much all modern ECU's are going to be able to do it for you. This is where the advice of 'ask your tuner what he recommends' becomes pretty valid, because if your tuner for any reason feels more comfortable tuning a Haltech vs a Link or vise versa, then go with that suggestion because at the end of the day your ECU is only going to do what the guy with the laptop tells it to do. If your tuner says "whatever you like, we can tune anything", which most of them will, then pick based on your budget. Plug-ins are going to be miles cheaper to setup compared to a full wire-in, so take that into account.

 

My biggest piece of advice would be pay attention to how many inputs/outputs your ECU gives you. Most people will chew up AVI's very very quickly, so you want as many of those as you can get to suit your budget. 

  • Like 1
22 minutes ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

The Fury isn't a plug-in, the plug-in is equivalent to the G4+ Xtreme (which is basically the same as the Fury but doesn't have onboard wideband control). 

 

In all honesty, comparing ECU's can get a bit confusing at face value. You need to know what you want from the ECU. If you need specific functions like knock control, launch control, traction control, wideband control, data logging, etc, then you can look at the ECU's capabilities and pick one. This is really for guys using their car for motorsport, because that is really the only situation where you might be thinking "ok, I could shave a bit of time off if my ECU could do X or Y". For a street car, where you just want good resolution to have accurate control of the engine and perhaps some safety features, then pretty much all modern ECU's are going to be able to do it for you. This is where the advice of 'ask your tuner what he recommends' becomes pretty valid, because if your tuner for any reason feels more comfortable tuning a Haltech vs a Link or vise versa, then go with that suggestion because at the end of the day your ECU is only going to do what the guy with the laptop tells it to do. If your tuner says "whatever you like, we can tune anything", which most of them will, then pick based on your budget. Plug-ins are going to be miles cheaper to setup compared to a full wire-in, so take that into account.

 

My biggest piece of advice would be pay attention to how many inputs/outputs your ECU gives you. Most people will chew up AVI's very very quickly, so you want as many of those as you can get to suit your budget. 

Thanks for the info mate. I think I've made up my mind and going with the Haltech Elite 2000.. My tuner also recommended either Elite 2000 or 2500. 

 

  • 4 weeks later...

UPDATE:

The Engine is in!!

Next in line is, sort out all the wiring, install the cooler, radiator etc etc and plumbing. 

After that, we need to sort out the fuel system and were good to go.

 

 

IMG_3505.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Busy weekend for the boys in WA as everyones getting ready for Powercruise this weekend.

Hopefully more progress photos will come next week. 

Current state as per below. Still need to order the fuel system, fittings etc etc. 

1.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
    • Paint is only structural when applied to the outside of Chinese and Indian cars. Otherwise it should never be present between mechanical joints that were intended to be metal to metal. Pain slips, slides, cracks, compresses, and add thickness that wasn't intended to be there. It comes firmly under the category of "just no".
    • appreciated it thanks   There are threads on the adaptor. I rear re anodising but didn’t know it will reduce strength   re mating services needing to be flat/ not painted, why would that be? I am devastated as car been off for a year, fixed power steering then installed bm57 master cylinder and just before driving it this came up. So annoyed   worried and afraid to drive it, no fun caliper coming off    
×
×
  • Create New...