Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Predator1 said:

I have a EFR 9180. I want to max my turbo and see what she makes.

You should be able to hit 450awkw as long as the tune is spot on.

Hopefully man! I've started this project last year on the 1st December, so if I can finish it by December this year I would be a very happy man!

Do you have a build topic? 

Hi all,

Back again with more questions ?

Is this something I have to get it fixed now or? Can I get away with leaving it for now and replace it /get it fixed when the car is in running condition? 

Also ordered new transmission cross member bushings as mine weren't looking that great

 

623906929.jpg

 

Edited by oktaytrz
  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE

The picture below was taken on the 9th Oct. A lot has been happening in the past week whilst I was away. Ordered all the fittings, and the fab work started. (It is starting to look like a car now!😆)

Will be uploading another progress picture later today when I go in to check it out. 

20201009_164553.jpg

PROGRESS:

Fab work is going well. 

Ordered the following parts:

-Haltech flexfuel sensor, oil pressure, fuel pressure etc sensors

-FPR2000

-Will be ordering the Frenchies baffled in tank twin pump set up this week.

IMG_20201022_063312_608.jpg

  • Like 2

UPDATE;

Ordered the Frenchies baffled twin pump fuel system kit including 2x Walbro 460 pumps.

I think we are tracking well to finish the car early December. 

What is remaining;

-Complete the engine bay (fittings, hoses, catch can set up etc)

-Plumbing is still on going

-Frenchies system to go in

-Custom 3.5inc exhaust to be made and fitted

-DYNO 

  • Like 1

Any reason you're going 3.5' exhaust and not 4'? I've just gone from a 3.5' to a 4' system on 98RON. This allowed me to run more boost (Ignition timing was close at only 18psi using -5's with the 3.5'). With the 4' exhaust and 4psi of boost added, I gained 40kw at the wheels. I'd definitely be going 4' if you're paying for a custom system anyway.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, GDZ32 said:

Any reason you're going 3.5' exhaust and not 4'? I've just gone from a 3.5' to a 4' system on 98RON. This allowed me to run more boost (Ignition timing was close at only 18psi using -5's with the 3.5'). With the 4' exhaust and 4psi of boost added, I gained 40kw at the wheels. I'd definitely be going 4' if you're paying for a custom system anyway.

Could do 4' as well but I personally prefer the 3.5'. I think for the power I am chasing which is mid to high 400 kw's. You have a valid point tho.

In my opinion, no need to overkill.. the car will be run on E85 most of the time even tho we're going with a flex fuel set up, so we don't see the need for a 4' to chase a few extra kw's. I think it all comes down to personal preference and the power you'd like to achieve. 

 

  • Like 1

UPDATE:

FPR2000 is installed.

Haltech Flexfuel sensor is installed.

Catch can and the pod filter pipe will be painted gloss black this week so the engine bay should look a little more nicer.

20201103_164821.jpg

  • Like 1
45 minutes ago, oktaytrz said:

UPDATE:

FPR2000 is installed.

Haltech Flexfuel sensor is installed.

Catch can and the pod filter pipe will be painted gloss black this week so the engine bay should look a little more nicer.

20201103_164821.jpg

hey mate ive been folowing your build from the start just wanted to say looks awesome and keep being patient its going to be a thing of beauty! that piping work/welds look awesome best of luck getting it together and making the hp when the time comes. what a beast good choice on the haltec as well.

14 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

hey mate ive been folowing your build from the start just wanted to say looks awesome and keep being patient its going to be a thing of beauty! that piping work/welds look awesome best of luck getting it together and making the hp when the time comes. what a beast good choice on the haltec as well.

hey mate, I know you have! you've helped me with this build as well (especially with identifying whether I had the long or short nose crank collar) appreciate the help🙏

My mechanic's welding skills are on point. Hoping to get the car before xmas so I can start on prep on the rest of the body and paint it during my xmas break!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
×
×
  • Create New...