Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys 

So I just got a pair of new nismo taiI lights$$$$$$$$$$$ but when I hooked them up I noticed the two inside breaking lights don’t work

i looked it all up and I’ve found that in Australia the compliance’s disconnect/ cut the wires

the problem is where abouts in the loom is the cut or disconnected wires 

I have searched myself with no success so this is my last resort

thanks

jack

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479910-r34-inside-tail-lights-not-working/
Share on other sites

That can't be true.

R34s are not like R32s. The only rule that had to be complied with that required the modification of taillights on Skylines was that there must be no permanently illuminated taillights outboard of the rear indicators. As R32s have 4x taillights with the indicators in between, the outer taillights had to be disabled. That was achieved by cutting the wires that run between the inner and outer lights, and was easily restored by just reconnecting them.

Pay careful attention to the fact that I am talking about taillights, NOT brake lights. There is no problem with the brake lights being inboard, outboard, up high down low, upside down or any other relationship to the indicators.

R34s had the indicator in the centre of the inner light, which is the taillight and the outers are brake lights, so there is no problem with the rules. If your Nismo's outer brake lights are not working, then they might be stuffed in some manner, or stupidly modified in some way. Look for cut wires inside them. Play with a 12v drill battery and jumper wires to see if you can make shit light up. It's not rocket surgery.

 

My brake lights all work fine it is the tail lights( the one with the indicator in the middle) that are not working and there is no problem with the lights because I tested it with a one of those power checking things with the two prongs that you poke into each wire and it indicated that there where 0 wats going through the tail light wires  on both sides

46 minutes ago, Jacks red r34 gtt said:

I noticed the two inside breaking lights don’t work

Le sigh.

9 minutes ago, Jacks red r34 gtt said:

I tested it with a one of those power checking things with the two prongs that you poke into each wire

Do you know how electricity works?

  • Like 1

You did not "check them". You poked holes in the insulation with multimeter probes in probably one place, found no voltage and gave up.

Go outside, open the boot, and START FOLLOWING THE WIRES YOURSELF!

There is no way that the wires in your car needed to be cut for compliance reasons because there are no compliance reasons to do so on R34s. Therefore there is no "common" place for them to be cut, so no-one on the f**king internet is going to be able to tell you what is wrong so you will have to solve the f**king problem yourself, like a f**king man. For f**k's sake.

You are not describing the problem very well.

If it is that one of a pair of tail lights (you started off saying breaking lights) is working and the other is not then just take power from the working light and supply it to the non working light (assuming it has a bulb which works).

Look guys I’m sorry ok I am new to all this so try not to be to harsh on me 

So I am open to being corrected

what I’m trying to achieve is to get the two inside (tail lights) with the indicator in the middle to work 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • 12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...