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Rb25det dies when kicking clutch

River H
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River H Newbie

River H

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Posted

Hi all, 

Since a while I have a real annoying problem with my 95 R33 gtst. It has a pretty much stock rb25det in it, stock ecu, steel turbo, fmic and a hks ssqv blowoff. 

My problem is that when I kick my clutch to stop for a stoplight or sth, my rpm drops down and doesn't catch it in the idle, it just drops further and dies. 

Weird thing is, the problem mostly starts when the engine is warm. When I just drive and kick in the clutch, no matter from what rpm it just stalls. When I have been boosting (somewhere in the trip) and I let the engine drop to idle rpm, in gear, and then kick the clutch it will (most of the times) still die. Or it will sometimes drop to 100-200rpm and then tries to get it back to idle but starts bouncing like a mofo. 

Sometimes when I haven't been boosting all the time (like, literally no boost at all) it will catch it to idle when I drop the rpm in gear and kick the clutch. (except when kicking clutch from higher rpms 2500+ rpm) 

I thought it was maybe a problem of the bov but I'm not that sure anymore.. It's also kinda hard to explain the problem. Anyone knows what it could be??? 

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479928-rb25det-dies-when-kicking-clutch/
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thebe Enthusiast

thebe

Posted
Posted

Its most likely the bov causing your issues. Its dumping out air the MAF has already measured so the engine is getting much less air than what has been measured. The stock ecu isnt good at handling false info. This is a common "issue" with these engines and bovs, especially fake ones. (More a feature really when fitting engines with parts not designed for the setup)

Anyway I think your options are:

1. Get a bypass valve instead of blow off, stock or aftermarket.

2. Block off the bov completely.

3. Go aftermarket ecu with map

4. Relocate maf after bov and get a programmable ecu like nistune with a retune.

5. Ignore the problem and carry on. Learning how to give it gas while braking might help.

 

I think number 1 is the most sensible one on a stock car, especially since we cant really say for sure its the bov via interweb, but its a good place to start. Stock bov is perfectly fine and should be cheap. I sold mine for ~20€

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