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Even with the original paint code the colour will never be the same as what you have now due to the age of the car.

This is due to the violets having poor light fastness ( fade easily over time in sunlight due to UV exposure )

There are multiple ways to go about it:

1.   A very competent colour matcher should be able to match the colour of the panels on the car now.

2.  A colour reading can be taken off the panels with a portable spectrophotometer that has the colour formulation data already loaded into it. Then the program can colour match the new formulation match the panel on the car.

You will need to achieve a DE (delta E) of less than 0.3 ( this is the colour reading the spectro will generate ).

Also for it to be a perfect match it will also need to be checked in three light sources : ( all with a DE of less than 0.5 ) :

D65/10 ( what sunlight looks like at midday )

A10/10 ( what sunlight looks like in the early morning )

F2/10 ( what sunlight looks like in the light afternoon )

This is to avoid the colour looking metameric ( different shades of colour at morning/noon/afternoon )

Hows that ? Clear as mud ?

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In the industries Ive supplied into a DE (D65/10) of less than 0.8 would be and acceptable ( targeting the hue line ) match.

A DE (D65/10) of less than 0.5 would be a approved match, again targeting the hue line.

And a DE (D65/10) of less than 0.3, coupled with A10/10 and F2/10, not having a variation of not more 5% between each other always gives the best match where it comes to repairs/matching on older faded colours.

Nothing worse than having the colour come back again cause the customer can "see" a difference and rejects it.

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I went to the body shops for repaint some parts, they have spectrophotometer, but they said you must paint all the body of the car to avoid the difference, if you re paint some part you will see the difference, that because this color is different.

 

I am confused with this problem :44_frowning2:

Sigh . . . . so what they are saying is they couldn't be bothered and all they want is to hit you up for a complete respray.

All that is required with the spectrophotometer is for them to take multiple readings off the body panels.

The colour matching program will average out the results and then generate the formula that is required.

Ive seen this many times over the years with paint places not utilizing their spectros to their full potential.

There are other factors as well but that will involve a bunch of sciency wyencie explanations into the differences in metal and plastic panels

12 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

There is so much pearl in the colour they’ll never get it right 

Correct ! Again another issue !

However the macro calculations in the spectro program for automotive colours "should" have pearl inclusion included in it for it to work it out.

Again you then run into the different particle sizes in the pearl suppliers over time since the car was painted originally.

I the end the only way is to use both the spectro and a very good colour matcher for the final visual approval on the car.

I've had my bumper painted due to someone rubbing against it pulling out of a carpark.  I wouldn't say its perfect but pretty unnoticeable - it blends both with the quarter panel and tailight cover.  Only problem now is the fuel marks 

IMG_4808.JPG

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16 hours ago, PLYNX said:

Sigh . . . . so what they are saying is they couldn't be bothered and all they want is to hit you up for a complete respray.

All that is required with the spectrophotometer is for them to take multiple readings off the body panels.

The colour matching program will average out the results and then generate the formula that is required.

Ive seen this many times over the years with paint places not utilizing their spectros to their full potential.

There are other factors as well but that will involve a bunch of sciency wyencie explanations into the differences in metal and plastic panels

Thanks a lot

 

so you think, there is a chance or it’s possible to reach the same color perfectly?

15 hours ago, choyda said:

 

I've had my bumper painted due to someone rubbing against it pulling out of a carpark.  I wouldn't say its perfect but pretty unnoticeable - it blends both with the quarter panel and tailight cover.  Only problem now is the fuel marks 

 

 

What you feel on your car it’s came same color?

How you get the color ? You import it from Japan or the body shop mixed for you ?

how much the Re paint bumper cost you ?

 

I need to  Re paint rear pumper and side meror and rear light covers 

 

 

15 minutes ago, PLYNX said:

Yes

Thanks a lot dear that what I need to heart,   I learned too much from you.

any information about this paint, specialy from same one have a lot of experience , or he faced this problem with this color, I will be gratefully

I always notice more than others but its close enough.

The panel beater ordered the paint through their supplier who ordered part of the mix from Nissan (from memory).  The minimum size of whatever came from Nissan had to be 650mL - $495 which was more than enough for my repair.  Total cost for the bumper including a $30 V-Spec decal from Nissan was $1000 4 years ago.

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On 3/12/2020 at 12:12 AM, choyda said:

 

I always notice more than others but its close enough.

The panel beater ordered the paint through their supplier who ordered part of the mix from Nissan (from memory).  The minimum size of whatever came from Nissan had to be 650mL - $495 which was more than enough for my repair.  Total cost for the bumper including a $30 V-Spec decal from Nissan was $1000 4 years ago.

 

Thanks pro you helping me too much.

any information about this color I need it now, and if have the supplier contact email  or any contact facility send it to me 

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