Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have gone to put front coilovers in my R33 GTR and noticed that the nut at the bottom of the strut just spins on the stud.
Does anyone know if the stud can be replaced or do I have to source myself a new front extension knuckle arm.
Pictures below for reference.

Cheers

89075255_2442018315899935_6248243028364886016_n.jpg

89088956_518166432230385_1922498877190045696_n.jpg

Capture.JPG

Is it the male thread damaged, or the nut? "Just spins" could be either. Nuts are somewhat easier to replace.

The stud is just pressed in. So it can be pressed out. You probably can't buy one, so you'd need to get a machinist to copy it.

Worst case (and this is really really the worst case) you could try cutting it down to the next thread size as a purely temporary fix. I wouldn't do this, but it is something of an option.

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

Is it the male thread damaged, or the nut? "Just spins" could be either. Nuts are somewhat easier to replace.

The stud is just pressed in. So it can be pressed out. You probably can't buy one, so you'd need to get a machinist to copy it.

Worst case (and this is really really the worst case) you could try cutting it down to the next thread size as a purely temporary fix. I wouldn't do this, but it is something of an option.

It's as if someone has over tightened the nut causing the stud thread to be stripped. The nut does not want to come off, it's just stuck on that spot of the stud spin-able. 

The car is still drive-able, I just cant swap in my coilovers. 

The nut will have to be destroyed with a grinder and/or nut splitter to get it off. At that point the car will be undrivable until you fix the stud. So either get a replacement upright or plan for it to be off the road while you get someone to remake the part. Your coilovers are off the table until then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
×
×
  • Create New...