R32 GTR Ignition Issue

[Misslehead]

Hi all, I bought an R32 GTR a few months ago, noticed a fuel leak and went to investigated. I pulled out the connectors to the top of the fuel pumps so that I could better see where the leak was coming from (initially thought it was a crack in the tank). Once I realized where the leak was coming from (one of the hose clamps from soft lines to hard lines rusted off) I plugged the pumps back in and went to start the car to get a better look at exactly where the car was leaking from. So here is the issue, when I turn the key to the first and second positions everything is normal, lights come on, clock comes on, dash starts up like normal, as soon as I hit the "On" position the car tries to prime the fuel pump and the center diff for about a tenth of a second and then all of the electrics cut out. The interior lights still work and the headlights still come on but pretty much everything else is non-functional. I can repeat this but I have to unplug the battery, otherwise nothing comes on when I try again after the initial cut out. So here are the things I have checked:

All fuses (under hood and under steering wheel)

Fusible Link, nothing wrong

Removed the FPCM (checked it, nothing wrong that I can see)

New battery

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[GTSBoy]

What is stock and what is modified?

Without any other info, I would be pondering the functioning of the ECCS relay, which is the main relay involved in powering the ECU, and can just die on its own (rarely) or be subject to shenanigans from badly done wiring mods.

Otherwise, this is a really big field of possibilities.

[Misslehead]

The only things done to the car that I am aware of, is different turbos, intake, exhaust, suspension and wheels (all mechanical things). There is also a turbo timer wired in, the car was working without problems before, so its not like the car has never worked. The only other thing I can think of that I changed is that I had a new key cut, but I used that key a few times to start the car no problems. I went back to the original key I got and still have the same issue. Thanks for the response btw. This one is a real head scratcher for me.

[GTSBoy]

2 hours ago, Misslehead said:

turbo timer

These can cause all sorts of shit. They are wired into the ignition power. I would start looking there. Is there a handbrake switch wired into it that is now causing problems, for example?

The ignition switch might be faulty. For example of possible failure mode. You get power through it when switched to ON, and then you turn it to start and when it comes back to ON the contacts (worn, broken, etc) don't line up any more. I know that's not your problem, I'm just illustrating. In your case it would be less likely because it sounds like it starts getting power at ON then it goes away, which is less likely to be the switch. Still could be.

This will come down to chasing around with a multimeter. Looking for where power is and at what times/points in your operation, and comparing with knowledge of what it should be. What it should be is harder to know if you don't have a working example to compare with, or loads of experience of chasing that type of problem in that type of car.

[Misslehead]

So you are suggesting just disconnecting the turbo timer then? I didn't wire it in so I'm not sure how they are normally spliced in. I haven't had any issues with it but I guess anything is possible. And how do you suggest testing the ignition switch, as in which fuses should I test across? Thanks again.

[GTSBoy]

28 minutes ago, Misslehead said:

So you are suggesting just disconnecting the turbo timer then? I didn't wire it in so I'm not sure how they are normally spliced in. I haven't had any issues with it but I guess anything is possible. And how do you suggest testing the ignition switch, as in which fuses should I test across? Thanks again.

At this point, given the questions you're asking, I'd suggest that you'd probably be better off taking it to a sparky.

Turbo timer installation requires cutting wires and splicing it in, so there is no quick and simple "disconnection". TTs are shit, so you should consider pissing it off anyway. But that's a digression.

I couldn't tell you what fuses to test across, and more to the point, that's probably not going to tell you anything. I'd be dismantling the column shroud to expose the ignition switch and probing the back of the switch's plug, with the wiring diagram in hand, to see where and when you get power, and if it is going away when it apparently shouldn't. Then I'd be going down to the ECCS relay (at the ECU) to examine its behaviour. Although, really, I would be looking sideways at the turbo timer the whole time, so you would be far better off making sure that it wasn't to blame before trying to troubleshoot anywhere else.

But seriously, this sort of thing is not possible to do remote hand holding. You have to be there with the multimeter in hand and know when what you're measuring is right or wrong to be able to find the problem. Even more so to fix it once you've found it. Hence the sparky recommendation.

[Shyboy]

 Check and see if your alarm immobiliser (if have any)is working properly I also have this issue sometimes , I pissed off the turbo timer/brand new ignition barrel no luck 
I have narrowed it down to Relays,alarm