Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Helpers !    Vehicle : 2003 Nissan Skyline V35, Coupe. / Modified Parts - After Market Exhaust, Stillen Inktake.

So here's the scenario, I just got home after a 15min drive on a sunny hot day to quickly go and change and I left the car on idling with my air conditioner on low.

Roughly 5 mins later I came back out and saw the Car was smoking with steam from through the bonnet !

I then ran quickly and switched off the engine and open the bonnet !

I suddenly saw my coolant reservoir boiling like its 1000 Degrees and it was leaking a lot around that area

Next thing I did was I let the car cool down, while looking around I could also hear my car oil boiling as well.

After about another 5 mins.. MY COOLANT SUDDENLY JUST DRAINED EMPTIED !  (I believed it escaped from my Water Pumps Weep Hole)

I was not happy with the situation, thinking I have a leak somewhere. So I then went to fill the Radiator and the reservoir with coolant after it cooled down and checked for leaks at the bottom .... but NOTHING !

Instead it retained its coolant level ! ????

So I started the car up and warmed it up but still no leak but the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON !

Next day I decided to take it to the mechanics and went to check the CODES and it came up P1217 - ENG OVER TEMP & P0327 Knock Sensor / Circuit B1

He also checked my Fan motor 40amp FUSE with the circuit tester and said it was blown which would've caused the car to overheat since it failed to turn the fan on. So he replace the fuse and cleared the engine code afterwards and said it should be all good.
(40amp Fan fuse located next to the battery)

Car runs fine so far, I haven't really went too far but so far it's not overheating or anything.

MY MAIN QUESTION IS.... WAS THIS ALL BECAUSE OF THE 40AMP FAN FUSE !??!?

Should I even replaced my Water Pump since it leaked through the weep hole or keep driving it since its not leaking right now ?

My mechanic told me that there was a possible chance the Knock Sensor probably came up was cause my Fan Motor Fuse was blown and failed to cool the radiator down and caused the sensor to go off so it should be okay for now, what are your thoughts ? Should I replace the sensor too ?

 

THANK YOU HELPERS !

Edited by Jonic

Seems that it overheated because you left it running on a hot day with the air con going with no fan. No surprise there.

So, it boiled and blew all the coolant out. Not surprising either.

If it is now holding coolant and running fine, then you probably dodged a bullet with respect to blowing a head gasket or the various other bad things that could have happened. Count your blessings and don't do it again.

The knock sensor probably detected boiling noises. Or the engine actually could have been pinging at idle because the head was SUPER hot. If it doesn't show that code again, then count your blessings and don't do it again.

  • Like 1
On 14/03/2020 at 4:06 PM, Jonic said:

I bought myself a new water pump just in case for back up. Fingers crossed 

Hope you got a good one ....the Chinese cheapies don't seem to last.

  • Like 1

might be time to give the coolant system some attention for some preventative maintenace. thermostat, rad cap, proper water pump install, mise well do your belt at same time.clean rad or replace. make sure the heater core isn't plugged and is working proper. give it a good coolant flush make sure you get all your bubbles out and away you go. Then you can sleep easy knowing your coolant system is serviced. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...