Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't worry about the shifting guide. You can change up at any speed between idle and redline. The only question after that is whether it will have enough torque to swallow much throttle opening in the next gear> RB20s have little torque, so the answer to that question will be "no" unless you're above about 3k rpm. And just to the right of the speedo is the gauge that will tell you about that.

The km to mile conversions are correct enough. Everyone since forever has treated the conversion as 40=60, 50=80, 60=100 and 70=110, to within the accuracy that matters.

For efficiency shift based on the peak efficiency RPM, shift just past the peak efficiency point while maximizing load without encountering high load enrichment so you sweep through the efficiency sweet spot. Looking at the gearing of the GTRs it looks like you want to be shifting at 3000 RPM so you drop down to ~2000 RPM when accelerating. Hold the engine right around 50-60% throttle if this is an NA engine or right at atmospheric pressure for turbo engines for best results.

For cruising pick the highest gear that doesn't have you exceeding the accelerating throttle condition. As for the best speed to cruise at, something high enough that you aren't running below 2000 RPM and something low enough that you don't exceed 3000 RPM.

  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

It's simple, it's the condition where you are accelerating with the throttle.

How do you accelerate without using the throttle... unless rolling down a hill? ?

3 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

How do you accelerate without using the throttle... unless rolling down a hill? ?

Very carefully?

Jokes aside the point is that lugging the engine at 1500 RPM and WOT to cruise is going to actually be quite inefficient even if the pumping loss is minimized. It's better to cruise at 2500 RPM with less throttle. The exact numbers are going to vary by engine but the principle is the same.

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

Very carefully?

Jokes aside the point is that lugging the engine at 1500 RPM and WOT to cruise is going to actually be quite inefficient even if the pumping loss is minimized. It's better to cruise at 2500 RPM with less throttle. The exact numbers are going to vary by engine but the principle is the same.

Can you explain how you came to this conclusion? 

I am interested in the math and any other data you are relying on to make this statement. 

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
×
×
  • Create New...