Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. So I installed my Hicas delete kit.(picture below). After install,  i had my alignment done. The bushings are the ones I installed that came with it. Now when I drive and shifting through gears, i feel my rear end wanting to fish tail a little. Is this normal? I'm driving an r33 gtst. Just want to know so I don't take her back to garage to get them to look it over again. 

15850554916634866986402043585056.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480021-hicas-delete-question/
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If it's all bolted up properly and the alignment is good, just keep driving it. You'll get used to the changes with more seat time. 

Oh ok. My daily is an S2000 and it doesn't feel like that at all. 

I’ve heard this before after hicas removal, check your bolts and what not make sure everything is right. drive it for a bit if you can’t stand It try a different alignment or find a gtr lol. Just kidding should be fine alignment may just not suit your driving style.

On 3/24/2020 at 5:28 PM, GTSBoy said:

What is the rear toe after the alignment?

I really have no idea. I have a 6 month warranty in the alignment. If I were to take her back, is there a number I should be shooting for her? All I know is that it is in the green. 

38 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

I’ve heard this before after hicas removal, check your bolts and what not make sure everything is right. drive it for a bit if you can’t stand It try a different alignment or find a gtr lol. Just kidding should be fine alignment may just not suit your driving style.

Ok. I do have a warranty on the alignment. If I were to take her back to redo the alignment, is there a rear setting I should be shooting for or just make sure she is in the green?

2 minutes ago, Aphonechanh said:

I really have no idea. I have a 6 month warranty in the alignment. If I were to take her back, is there a number I should be shooting for her? All I know is that it is in the green. 

Toe out would be way twitchy. Zero toe should be very easy to disturb. Toe in should be more stable.

Be aware that static toe, as measured on the rack, may completely change when the vehicle is moving, particularly if you have stuffed bushes in any of the arms.

You should have got a sheet with your alignment telling you your numbers...I got a feeling your alignment is not wrong just not set up the way you want it. I know when we get alignments done around here you can see the whole review of what they did and your final numbers. 

Do this for the rear, if you want some stability.

  • -1 degree camber (these things camber in hard when they squat)
  • 1mm toe in each side (2mm total toe in, on squat these shit boxes toe out)

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...