MLR's Bogan cruise ship

[The Bogan]

7 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Are you sure you don't want to go manual? If you do, I have a fresh T56 with 6 neutrals, all ready to go after my track day today!

Ouch

What broke, I thought the T56's were a tough box?????

As for my choice of transmission, I purposely got the SS with a auto, better for sitting in traffic, drags, and cruising the highways and byways, the Commodore is a big lazy cruise ship, a manual in it would would be more of a pain than a pleasure

[The Bogan]

Playing with the noise of the LS1: Version 3.2 5/8

Ages ago I deleted the rear box on my Pacemaker dual 2.5"....... it sounded good everywhere, but droned like 10 droning things, so I put the rear box back on, then....
I removed the middle mufflers to see if I like that,......it sounded good at idle, but, it sounded like 2 thongs slapping really fast at high RPM, so.........

Today the car had a Sureflo 3.5" single plumbed in, with a 3.5" resonator in the middle and a 3.5" straight through muffler in the rear.

It's louder and deeper than the Pacemaker before I started chopping it up, but not heatseaker loud, well...........

It sounds really good now at high RPM, with no slapping thongs, just a nice deep guttural roar

And no real drone, actually, it drones less than the Pacemaker did before I started cutting it up, which will keep the Minister for war and finances happy on long drives, well, when the windows are up anyway, windows down and it is loudish...😀

 

[The Bogan]

As I will soon have a built gearbox........I've never had a supercharger before 

I've been visiting alot of sites

I like this > VT-VY LS-1 Vortech Sealed Si-Trim Kit, Intercooled
(Gilmer P/Steer Drive, Injectors, Pump & Map Sensor) 

http://www.capa.com.au/kits_holden_ls1.htm

I also like this > http://www.aseturbo.com/HOLDEN-COMMODORE/VT-VZ-COMMODORE/TURBO-KIT-T800-STEALTH-VT-VZ/prod_88.html

Both will probably cost the same after supporting mods and coatings 

Turbo whoshy noises or supercharger whine?

Then all I need to do is buy it and then find someone to install and tune it

[robbo_rb180]

Supercharger would be the go. 

Have you looked at any of the harrop kits? 

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/htv2300-holden-vt-vz-commodore

 

[GTSBoy]

Centrifugal chargers are for girls.

Big twisted rotor or GTFO!

[The Bogan]

7 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Supercharger would be the go. 

Have you looked at any of the harrop kits? 

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/htv2300-holden-vt-vz-commodore

 

The Harrop kits look sweet, the only issue is cost

I'm lazy and am a big fan of drive in drive out modifications 

Single turbo is the cheapest, then the Vortech is next, both would need other supporting mods but it should be drive in drive out for under $15k

The Harrop on the other hand starts at $12k in the box, which could easily end up over the $15k drive in drive out budget I am happy to throw away on it

Unless a good shop can guarantee they can do it properly for under $15k

I'm still in planning stage ATM looking for options, and supporting mods, to get me around 350-370 ATW which gives a fudge factor to the built gearbox, and stock bottom end, a chance at a reasonably long and healthy life, well, for a while anyway, until it breaks 

18 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Centrifugal chargers are for girls.

Big twisted rotor or GTFO!

They look like a good option for the power I'm after, and when the bonnet is shut no one will know I'm a big girls blouse, apart from the people who remember I had a MX5, and as long as I keep my pants on no one will see my frilly leopard skin knickers

Meh

[Kinkstaah]

I can't remember. Did you put a cam in yet?

Otherwise there's other considerations to be made for boost. You can't just boost a standard LS to 370kw, you need springs and pushrods and other head.. stuff, to make it actually work and not be a floaty mess.

Centrifugal charger is the simplest, best way to go if you can retain your accessories. Less of an issue as you don't want track work, but running a FMIC and keeping intake charge down is cool and a major advantage of them. People say "lol but then you have nothing down low" but you have a v8. It has plenty down low.

[The Bogan]

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

I can't remember. Did you put a cam in yet?

Otherwise there's other considerations to be made for boost. You can't just boost a standard LS to 370kw, you need springs and pushrods and other head.. stuff, to make it actually work and not be a floaty mess.

Centrifugal charger is the simplest, best way to go if you can retain your accessories. Less of an issue as you don't want track work, but running a FMIC and keeping intake charge down is cool and a major advantage of them. People say "lol but then you have nothing down low" but you have a v8. It has plenty down low.

Yeah it already has a 223 228 114 cam, PAC double springs and some chromoly push rods with some LS7 lifters and guides.

This thing will never see real track work, the occasional run at the drags and cruising duties will be its forte

Definitely going FMIC

[robbo_rb180]

if wanting best budget power adder NO2 is the way
I like the harrop stuff as good quality and has a good upgrade path to make big reliable power- smaller pulley, bigger reserviour (ice tank),bigger heat exchanger or interchiller and belt upgrade. Yeah it costs more but you could do a lot yourself the hardest part is having someone read your tune and flash in a map with new injector and map sensor data.

[The Bogan]

2 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

if wanting best budget power adder NO2 is the way
I like the harrop stuff as good quality and has a good upgrade path to make big reliable power- smaller pulley, bigger reserviour (ice tank),bigger heat exchanger or interchiller and belt upgrade. Yeah it costs more but you could do a lot yourself the hardest part is having someone read your tune and flash in a map with new injector and map sensor data.

I looked at NOS, of course I looked at NOS, BUT, initial outlay is cheap, filling bottles isn't.

And not really street friendly

You cannot legally have it connected, and even if you do, constantly filling bottles

And at around $15 a pound, even filling a 20lb bottle, lets say 15lb at $15 plus $15 "bottle" fee, filling up every month for $240 is $2880 a year

And a 20lb bottle lasts about 10 x 100hp hits of 10-15 seconds

And you can only use typically around 75% of a bottle until the pressure drops and surging can occur

Plus all the fail safes, and purging, and connection woes.....yeah nah

[The Bogan]

Just got the car back

The team at Graigs automatics were great to deal with

The 600hp build consists of:

Sungear shell with roller bearing
Kolene dual cage sprag hub
Friction capsule
Gaskets, seals and rings
Craigs Stage 2 shift kit
Hi energy uprated spring kit
Heavy duty bush kit
Machined pump stator
Machined band drum brake
Needle washer kit
Billet forward accumulator piston
Billet 2nd gear servo
TH400 4th gear super hold servo
Molded steel clutch pack pistons
High energy kevlar band
Input drum strengthening kit
Inspected and cleaned
Service hi-stall converter

Also ordered a new radiator plastic cover and a stock airbox, the current OTR intake isn't going to work with......the HTV2300 that will be getting installed soon

SEND IT

[r32-25t]

I thought they made a kit to fit those to the over the radiator intake 

[robbo_rb180]

3 hours ago, mlr said:

HTV2300 that will be getting installed soon

SEND IT

 

What changed your decision from turbo/centrifugal setup? 

[The Bogan]

50 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

 

What changed your decision from turbo/centrifugal setup? 

I want "some form" of reliability 

Turbo, the nature of the beast, i.e. torque monster, would negate all reliability, heat management 

Centrifugal, everyone I talked to about installing and tuning it seemed to not care about me wanting to limit the torque, it was, "nah, 450kw man, it will be awesome"

The twin screw, I talked to Harrop, and Bullet, and a few work shops, and they seemed to understand my wants IRT limiting torque to save reliability, it would still be more torque than I really wanted though, even at 350kwatw they said torque would be around 750nm

There was one shop, that did recommended not boosting it, saying that instead of spending alot of coin, and them limiting the torque, I would be better of staying NA and just getting some CNC heads and a few other bits and pieces and shoot for around 300kwatw.

In the end it was $15k boosted and high risk, or under $5k NA and low risk

The question is do I want over 70 more killerwasps and high risk

Or, 30 killerwasps and low risk

Farrk, reading that is making me think about my choices

There were alot of busted boosted cars in every workshop I visited..........

Fark I'm indecisive......... 

If it wasn't for my compulsive behaviour I wouldn't get anything done...........

[robbo_rb180]

1 hour ago, mlr said:

I want "some form" of reliability 

Turbo, the nature of the beast, i.e. torque monster, would negate all reliability, heat management 

Centrifugal, everyone I talked to about installing and tuning it seemed to not care about me wanting to limit the torque, it was, "nah, 450kw man, it will be awesome"

The twin screw, I talked to Harrop, and Bullet, and a few work shops, and they seemed to understand my wants IRT limiting torque to save reliability, it would still be more torque than I really wanted though, even at 350kwatw they said torque would be around 750nm

There was one shop, that did recommended not boosting it, saying that instead of spending alot of coin, and them limiting the torque, I would be better of staying NA and just getting some CNC heads and a few other bits and pieces and shoot for around 300kwatw.

In the end it was $15k boosted and high risk, or under $5k NA and low risk

The question is do I want over 70 more killerwasps and high risk

Or, 30 killerwasps and low risk

Farrk, reading that is making me think about my choices

There were alot of busted boosted cars in every workshop I visited..........

Fark I'm indecisive......... 

If it wasn't for my compulsive behaviour I wouldn't get anything done...........

Haha.... The fun of modifying cars. 

Have you run it at the drags yet? Maybe go do 2 test and tunes, see how you go then decide if wanting to chase a time. 

Don't worry I'm in the same boat at the moment with my 370. I want to do a few small mods but already looking at a turbo setup..... 

[The Bogan]

8 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Haha.... The fun of modifying cars. 

Have you run it at the drags yet? Maybe go do 2 test and tunes, see how you go then decide if wanting to chase a time. 

Don't worry I'm in the same boat at the moment with my 370. I want to do a few small mods but already looking at a turbo setup..... 

That's the thing, I'm not chasing times, I'm chasing noise

Whooshy noises make me smile

 

Breaking them, not so much

[admS15]

Twin screw all the way. The noise is fantastic. Whine and V8 roar, how can you go wrong. Driven maturely, it "should" hold together pretty good.

[robbo_rb180]

1 hour ago, mlr said:

Whooshy noises make me smile

Same here.

Get the supercharger. 

[The Bogan]

Or.........

 

https://vm.tiktok.com/ZSEdhKpc/

LOL

[Kinkstaah]

Mate has a centrifugal charger with an atmo bov.

Vrrrrr -TSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

Sound like real old school public transport. I.e a steam train.