MLR's Bogan cruise ship

[Kinkstaah]

On 5/19/2022 at 10:06 AM, mlr said:

Can you shoot me some info about how you wired it into the injectors and abs

My plan is some stranded CAT6 twisted and sheilded for the ABS

How did you/what did you use, to connect into the ABS/injector wiring? Crimps/solder??? Chewing gum???

For the injectors

Option 1: I'm either going to get 9 different coloured 0.75mm stranded wire for the 8 injectors and 1 earths, then make up a harness with corrugated conduit and heat shrink

Option 2: Get 4 x 5 core 0.75 FVV, 2 x 5 core each bank for my injectors in and out (allows me to keep the same colour wire for the cylinder in and out, and the spare for the earth

Any pics or recommendations would be most welcome

I'm looking at option 1, but I may be missing something simple

Now, where or my wiring tools that I last used 22 years ago?????

 

Who am I kidding, Jaycar here I come

The racelogic actually came with flying leads which were shielded for the wheel speed sensors. I just soldered the ends of the wires into the ABS computer as per normal pretty close to where the plug plugs in.

Injectors was the same, just spliced into it close to the end. The racelogic actually has two sets of plugs you wire in, so you can unplug it from your injector wires to remove it from the system (and plug your injector wires back into themselves).

Not sure if RaceTCS has something similar, but there was nothing special wiring wise required, the shielding was supplied and packaged.

Looking at the RaceTCS unit, it looks like you can simply cut the injector wire, put one end into the RaceTCS item and the other end into the appropriate RaceTCS port and clamp it down which is even easier.

[The Bogan]

On 20/05/2022 at 10:12 AM, Kinkstaah said:

The racelogic actually came with flying leads which were shielded for the wheel speed sensors. I just soldered the ends of the wires into the ABS computer as per normal pretty close to where the plug plugs in.

Injectors was the same, just spliced into it close to the end. The racelogic actually has two sets of plugs you wire in, so you can unplug it from your injector wires to remove it from the system (and plug your injector wires back into themselves).

Not sure if RaceTCS has something similar, but there was nothing special wiring wise required, the shielding was supplied and packaged.

Cheers

Sadly RaceTCS has no harness

I've just ebayed a 7 meter length of CAT 6a for the ABS and 10 meters of 10 core RVV for the injectors, I'll strip it back and make up a harness, I also ebayed some Deutsch 2 way connectors to intercept the neutral 

I spent yesterday looking at electronic stores and stuff, buying 8 different coloured wires was an impossible feat, and they only had 7 core RVV

I went overboard with the 10 core and CAT wire, but I want to use the same colour wire for each intercept, the routing is about 2.5 meters one way, so 5 meters may have worked, but that didn't leave alot of options for routing the harness

With 10 meters of 10 core and 6 meters of CAT6a I could fit the box in the boot if I wanted, which I don't, but I could

My only concern is tapping into the correct ABS line, I may get someone with more skills than me to find which one is which, the rest of the wiring and harness making, is a cake walk

I would hate to think what a shop would charge to do the wiring

It's a waiting game now though as I needed to get the 10 core from China, and if it coming by sea I believe I may be in for a long wait

 

 

[Kinkstaah]

I forget that your ECU is in the engine bay, mine is in the R34 position so my Racelogic is also there, so I need about 10cm of wire, not much with regards to injectors.

ABS sensors will usually have a + and a - according to workshop manual. I believe mine didn't work on the + so I connected it to the - and hooray.

Just try ONE wheel speed sensor first (where it meets the ecu it goes to, inside the car!) and troubleshoot it and then replicate the working system for the other three wheels. I'm confident it'll be easier than you think.

[The Bogan]

[The Bogan]

The Toyo R888R are great, I've only got them on the rear but I cannot hear any extra noise, traction is greatly improved over the Hankook RS4

I went for a cruise to Robertson pie shop via Mac pass and headed down Jamberoo way, the Toyo C1S on the front hold the old girl nice with the R88R giving great traction coming out the tight corners 

I went traditional, Jackie went the berrie special 

[The Bogan]

Done few measures to work out how I'm going to fit the Thermotec Exhaust Jackets to my headers, the kit comes with 8 steel zip ties and 80 clips, enough sleeve to cover each primary 600mm(24"), thus having a clip every 75mm. I test fit one of the primaries, the sleeve covers my 1 7/8 primaries well, and when the clips are on (I didnt use the clips, I used some small stationary fold back clips), there isn't any gaps which is nice. Looks the goods so far. Just need time to do final fit up, and then take it for the typical "smokey drive" until the sleeves "cook off" the manufacturing residue like the normal heat wrap smoke show.

The hard part is covering the No1 primary on the 4:1 headers that obviously is bolted to the car and ducks behind the other primaries, I assume I'll be laying on my back playing "elastic man" with my arms

Also purchased a few electrical glands to run the RaceTCS wiring thru my firewall as I cannot see a neat and easy way to jam the cables through any existing "holes", 3 x 16mm glands to suit 5-10mm cable, the CAT6 cable is 5.5mm and the 2 ten cores are just on 9.5mm, tight enough to keep the moisture and engine bay fumes out. They will hopefully fit on the firewall on the passenger side without to much fuss, I've had a quick look, but there will be alot more looking before the 16mm holesaw gets to to play.

I'm still waiting on a rough quote from Autotech for the actual termination into the PCM and ABS modules, whilst the actual job isn't rocket science I would prefer to "pay cash" to someone with more wiring skills and proper tools for the job than me.

My wiring skills stop at buying the wiring, the Deutsch connectors, drilling the holes in the firewall, and fitting the glands, any more could result in fire, or possibly bay windows in the block.

Why am I drill holes, I need to feed in 1 x CAT6 from the ABS module into the cabin, and 2 x 10 core, 1 x 10 core of 8 injector out, and 2 earths, and 1 for 8 injector  in for the injector interceptor wiring and a power.

I will be heading into Autotech to get approval for my cunning plan.

So many coloured wires and tapping into to ABS and PCM makes Mark's head hurt.........

I pay cash now..

[Kinkstaah]

It's simple you silly head. I may have forgotten the LS ECU is natively in the engine bay, mine is all in the Nissan location....

Also when I installed the heat shield here -> https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-header-armor

We had the headers off the car and the transmission out. And you know what, honestly it made pretty much jack shit difference to engine bay temps, my engine bay gets HOT still, but it was done in the idea of protecting leads and other things in the bay. We did the entire exhaust from headers to exhaust tip in the effort of reducing floor temperature and cabin temp. And when I think about it... it did actually work to some degree. This is less of an issue in a factory setup though. But the main part was to do the headers it was simpler to remove them from the car, fit the shielding, and put it back on again. Doing it in situation was really not plausible.

Hope that help$!

[Kinkstaah]

Also worth mentioning "Removing the headers" is considered one of the most fked jobs in all of LS land, enough that a lot of LS owners, commodore or otherwise generally outsource it or take a day of labor to do it once they go from the OEM manifolds to long tubes etc.

So if it seems like a complete f**k around, it's because it is and it's not anything being done wrong per se.

[The Bogan]

On 30/06/2022 at 10:51 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Also worth mentioning "Removing the headers" is considered one of the most fked jobs in all of LS land, enough that a lot of LS owners, commodore or otherwise generally outsource it or take a day of labor to do it once they go from the OEM manifolds to long tubes etc.

So if it seems like a complete f**k around, it's because it is and it's not anything being done wrong per se.

Yeap, hence why when I had the new headers fitted I had them ceramic coated and fitted at the exhaust shop

The Thermotec sheet stuff I originally had on worked OK but not the best as it was only covering the front side of the primaries, this sleeve stuff covers the whole primary, typical to wrap, from the head down the primary for 600mm, and is 11ty times easier to install than wrap, and 100% better than the old sheet stuff

The stuff did cost me $250 though, but, fitting this will result in alot less swear words and rage fits than removing the headers to wrap, or trying to wrap them installed (which I swore that I would never do again, a few times...).

I am waiting for my new fender covers to arrive before I go balls deep fitting them though, I've got the paint to where I'm happy with it, the last thing I need is little scratches from my pantaloons dragging across the guards

[Kinkstaah]

Funny enough the stuff I used (header armor) they specifically state it should only go along one side of the exhaust and it isn't a full wrap, it's more like a heat shield and supposedly this is also more effective. But still required things to come off, but yours may be very different given, well it's a different car and different headers, but it actually looks like the bay space is very similar to a skyline from other fitment photos I've seen.

But expect pain nonetheless! Good idea to protect other engine sensitive things, but don't expect anything major in terms of heat, especially if you are changing some already-present heat protection? Expect to be whelmed with whatever reason this is being changed for...

[The Bogan]

On 01/07/2022 at 10:34 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Funny enough the stuff I used (header armor) they specifically state it should only go along one side of the exhaust and it isn't a full wrap, it's more like a heat shield and supposedly this is also more effective. But still required things to come off, but yours may be very different given, well it's a different car and different headers, but it actually looks like the bay space is very similar to a skyline from other fitment photos I've seen.

But expect pain nonetheless! Good idea to protect other engine sensitive things, but don't expect anything major in terms of heat, especially if you are changing some already-present heat protection? Expect to be whelmed with whatever reason this is being changed for...

Your stuff look much better than the original stuff I used on my tri-y headers, which didn't survive the swap, that did work OK though, but currently the headers are only ceramic coating, which, while it is meant to be the bees knees, it really only reduces temps by "not alot" and is more for protecting the mild steel pipes

The new stuff is meant to maintain an "air gap" which "apparently" helps the insulation

LOL

In other news I'm taking it into Autotech next week for them to have a look at the RaceTCS, the spot where I want it, and the program "thingie" that is on my lap top computa which you would know as it is basically the same thing as your Racelogic 

I'm really keen to get this fitted

 

[Kinkstaah]

The racelogic is one of those things (along with an Accusump) which blows my mind how they don't have wider adoption. They are simple and have massive, massive, massive effects and if you're even remotely interested in driving a car hard, you'll smack your head for not doing sooner.

Disappearing in need now as cars get newer and TC technology in OEM's is obviously very competent, but you'll look back at all the years of high powered RWD cars and be like "wtf why only now"

[The Bogan]

I'm taking the cruise ship into Autotech tomorrow to look at the RaceTCS install 

I've got a price for install in my head based off others that have similar stuff installed, hopefully it hits the mark

I'm super keen on setting it at 5 and 10% slip and just mashing the loud pedal and seeing what happens

 

[The Bogan]

Got bored, had this stuff laying around so "chop fit a go go"

Looks good with the bonnet and boot closed

Only did the boot because I did the bonnet and still had some offcuts left over

Still has some chalk marks from previous chop fitting, meh

[The Bogan]

So......yeap.......tried installing the heat sleeves.......yeap.......nope

Even after pulling off the coils and leads there was no way in hell that I could fit them over the pipes

I tried from the top, I tried from the bottom, sometimes things don't work out the way I want them to

 

In other, less rage related news, my Harley now has thermal sleeves under the heat guard

LOL

[Kinkstaah]

I told youuuuu!

[The Bogan]

On 13/07/2022 at 8:09 AM, Kinkstaah said:

I told youuuuu!

Attempt 3.0

Wish me luck

[The Bogan]

Grabbed 2 meters of 3/8" line from Peps to match up all my PCV lines

 

It did have 3 different brands of lines, some OEM, some from the blower install, some from Peps

Did I need to do it, like nearly always, nope, no real need or benefit from doing it, it was purely a visual want

In other news I all the bits and pieces to fit up the heat sheilds, I've taken some leave next week so I can do it slowly and hopefully I'm happy with the end result, so far my "cunning plan" looks good....in my head... 🤔🤯

[Kinkstaah]

That reminds me, why did I use all of the ports on the valve covers when I could neaten it and just use the PCV like you have done.

Cause.. flow? Ugh. Looks nice man. Much nicer than mine!

[Ben C34]

Why are you so worried about heat man?

It's not like they burst into flames. It is like 20yrs old and hasn't burnt down yet.