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Looks great. 1700kg? She's a bigger girl than she looks! Duncan your linked images are huge. Some are around 9mb even as thumbnails. When linking to your own images the site can't resize them properly. Just FYI. -
By soviet_merlin · Posted
Looking forward to see how you go with this! I have to admit race car is not the first thought coming to my mind when I see these cars. So this is definitely something different. I'm wondering: can you defeat the collision warning systems and other safety features? I've heard they can cause issues when racing modern cars. Don't want the car to start emergency breaking because you are heading into a corner or towards obstacles too fast. -
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So to the wiring for the LEDs, this should suit pretty much any modern car too. I did some precision hacking of the dash in a flat area with space behind (and left a nice scratch too) There I mounted a Narva 63169 On/Off/On switch with the following pinout I wired 2 and 6 to ACC power that I tapped into near the fuse box, 7 to earth, 4 comes from the Hi beam power in the IPDM via the firewall and 5 returns through the firewall to a relay I mounted near the battery. This means with the switch up the LEDs come on (as long as ACC is on), with it down they come on with high beams, and there is an off setting in the middle. The larger light on the switch comes on with it up, and the smaller light when they are set to come on with high beams (usual setting). Getting through the firewall was a bit of a mission. I mentioned earlier that most of the wiring sits in a compartment behind the engine and outside the firewall. The main loom runs through there and into the cabin through a big grommet conveniently (not) located under the ABS module and master cylinder. Thankfully there was also a small blanking plug there that I could just get to just above the main grommet but still very tricky, so I stuck a pick through to identify where it came out inside Inside, it came through just above the throttle mounting (you can kind of see the shadow where it came through). There is space there for a couple more wires in future but not many. Then, with the magic of straightened coathanger I ran twin core wire through. From there one wire was connected to the IPDM High beam wire and the other is the + trigger for the relay. I used a 40a 5 pin normally open relay Narva 68032 (the LEDs are rated 30A) wired as follows: 85 (earth trigger) - to earth 86 (pos trigger) - to pin 5 of the switch 30 power in - to the battery + via a 40a maxi fuse 87 / 87 - one wire to each of the LED + LED - is just earthed at the front reo Took a lot of stuffing around trying to see how to work with a new car, but it ended up OK. Lights in place Lights on -
Yeah 3.0 twin turbo direct injected - VR30DDTT. Makes 298kw factory (or 400hp if you prefer). Compared to the 32 GTR which makes 250kw at the wheels in production car trim it should be in mid pack somewhere despite weighing 1700kg.
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