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Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p

10 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) 😛

Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise

But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, The Bogan said:

holidays are continuing now as we are currently chilling at the Beachcomber in Toukley, after taking the coast roads from Sydney in the MX5, top down all the way, Toukley is where I spent a good deal of my youth holidaying during the summer months, there's lots of reminiscing going on,  and lots of beaches and old houses to visit

I hope u were never staying at that beautiful caravan park that used to be across the road from the Beachcomber! 🫣

  • Haha 1
1 hour ago, Watermouse said:

I hope u were never staying at that beautiful caravan park that used to be across the road from the Beachcomber! 🫣

Nope, I stayed at some dumps in my youth, but now it's real nice or nothing 🤣

Currently kicking it at The Entrance 

Also discovered that the NC ride height needs to come "UP" at least 10mm to clear some newly found speed humps up the central coast 😫

Job for tomorrow, I'll start at 10mm up other both ends from where it is now and hope that's enough for our next adventure 

  • Sad 2

After some googling of various websites IRT the best ride height for correct geometry I ended up going,  hub to guard, 330mm in the rear and 345 at the front, these heights came from Flyin' Miata in the states as what they recommend (13" rear, 13.5" front)

The rear needed to only come up 5mm, but the front came up 15mm

Overall it is around a 25mm drop from OEM ride height, doesn't look all 4x4, and hopefully should be enough height to clear those pesky speed humps

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I have lost around 0.5° camber on the front, and around 0.2° in the rear, I have no idea about what it did to toe settings so I'll look at a new alignment next week to get it set up how I want, zero rear and a little in at the front

I've also stripped the new intake and am currently cleaning and preparing the alloy for some paint, I've headed into work to do it as I can use the ovens in the soils lab to cure the wrinkle paint at 90°c

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Jackie has banned me from using the oven at home for stuff like this....🤣

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
31 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

After some googling of various websites IRT the best ride height for correct geometry I ended up going,  hub to guard, 330mm in the rear and 345 at the front, these heights came from Flyin' Miata in the states as what they recommend (13" rear, 13.5" front)

The rear needed to only come up 5mm, but the front came up 15mm

Overall it is around a 25mm drop from OEM ride height, doesn't look all 4x4, and hopefully should be enough height to clear those pesky speed humps

How much clearance is under the car?

We have speed humps being added everywhere around me. Faster than they fix the potholes, thats for sure.

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39 minutes ago, PranK said:

How much clearance is under the car?

We have speed humps being added everywhere around me. Faster than they fix the potholes, thats for sure.

I'll measure it up at the lowest point later and post it up

Currently painting, with the oven all warmed up to 93°c

 

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