Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 08/08/2022 at 12:03 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

WTF, how did that even happen

Meh, more parts at the wreckers or gumtree for me to browse through 

And the more that get written of the more mine goes up in price, and for a Commodore, that is weird, but true

  • Haha 2

I sold my VT2 SS LS1 6spd with usual mods (headers, exhaust, intake, tune) around 8 years ago. Was on the market for 6.5k for around a year before it finally sold for $5600. Struggled to even get anyone to come look at it.  I see guys asking 15-20k for them now and most of them look clapped out compared to mine.

Ah, the times we're living in.

  • Like 2

The Cruise Ship is in dry dock (Autotech)

It has developed a knock in the steering, mainly on right handers, I had a look, got the shits rolling around on my back under the car without finding what is was, so sent it to Autotech so they can put it up in the air and have a good look around, I'm guessing its a rack bush

While it is there I've asked them to do the front main seal, which currently losses oil at the rate of about 1 drop per week, which is annoying.....so.......seeing though the harmonic balancer needs to be pulled.....I've asked them to fit a Melling 10296  high volume pump, because.......why not

  • Like 1
On 11/08/2022 at 9:44 PM, The Bogan said:

Nope, I has blower, so I don't need no stinking turbos

images.jpeg-1.thumb.jpg.1bf554a178b97c3cc7ffe39017ceff34.jpg

well.....

 

you can haz both? supercharger with twin turbos.. will make all the right noises :D 

On 11/08/2022 at 10:09 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

We should roll race one evening for laughs at Roll Racing. We'll be the 2x slowest cars there too.

I'm always in for some fun

On 8/11/2022 at 7:15 PM, The Bogan said:

While it is there I've asked them to do the front main seal, which currently losses oil at the rate of about 1 drop per week, which is annoying.....so.......seeing though the harmonic balancer needs to be pulled.....I've asked them to fit a Melling 10296  high volume pump, because.......why not

Do not get the high volume pump - You will be just pumping oil harder into the heads and through your PCV system, and emptying your sump faster. What you want is the high PRESSURE pump. 

So yeah that's why not

I mean is it a real issue given how you use the car, no
Did you need to change the oil pump at all given that information also no

On 12/08/2022 at 9:28 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Do not get the high volume pump - You will be just pumping oil harder into the heads and through your PCV system, and emptying your sump faster. What you want is the high PRESSURE pump. 

So yeah that's why not

I mean is it a real issue given how you use the car, no
Did you need to change the oil pump at all given that information also no

I've been told that high volume pump will be advantages in it as opposed to high pressure 

Higher volume with standard pressure for modified unopened engines

Higher pressure + higher volume for built engines, dependant on clearances

Melling recommends the 10296 pump (18% increase)with standard oil pressure for the unopened high milage and/or modified LS1 that lives under 6500 rpm

 

Melling 10295: Same volume as LS1, 10% increase in pressure over LS1 based M295 oil pump.
Melling 10296: 18% increase in volume, stock pressure over M295 and 10295 oil pump.
Moroso 22120: 18% increase in volume, stock pressure over M295 and 10295 oil pump.
Melling 10355: 33% increase in volume over the 10295.
Factory GM LSA: 33% increase in volume over the 10295.
Melling 10355HV: 53% increase in volume over the 10295.

I'm confused, isn't the flow rate at a given oil pressure determined by the engine rather than the pump fitted to it? I would guess that a high flow pump will just mean more oil pressure at idle but not necessarily more oil pressure otherwise. Assuming it was already hitting the oil pressure limit for the regulator.

A higher volume (bigger) pump will "keep" the pressure up in the low RPM's, I don't need more pressure, I just need what the stock spring gives me

LS1 engines typically have minimal pressure at idle and due to the design of the pump struggle to make and keep pressure, resulting in lower than desired oil pressure at low RPM, as I'm making full boost from the minute I hit the loud pedal more volume and a better design is required to keep the stock pressure actually there

The GM LSA has a pump that runs 43% more volume because of this, no more pressure, just more volume

The issue with the OEM pump is it also cavities at higher RPM due to its design, the Melling pump has better flow paths than OEM, which stops this happening, the higher volume also can help with the cooling and valvetrain noise at low RPM

The pressure required to meet the specs comes from the clearances, if I had a sloppy built forged engine the builder would specify what pressure was needed at the bearings, which, would then mean playing with higher pressure springs as well volume, I remember Yavus from Unigroup talking about this with my old R33 when he was playing with the regulator on the Tomei high volume oil pump getting it to the pressure the builder said it needed at the bearings. ..😟...triggered......R33.....triggered.....  😟.....oil everywhere........🤯

So, for my LS1 at least, by adding a higher volume pump, with better flow paths, the stock pressure will remain stable at idle to WOT

And for around $300, it is a cheap thing to do, seeing as though the balancer is off anyway to fix the front main

Well, thats what the voices in my head say

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...