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6 minutes ago, Tobz said:

Aaaaa interesting, so yes I only know the r34 procedure

Yeah, that may be the big issue by not having the 2nd pin. I suck at reading wiring diagrams to figure it out 🤔

Noting the 2 posters above are talking R34 and R33, the R32 setup is quite different again. 

It uses a mechanical drive from the gearbox to the speedo in the dash, and then the speedo itself provides the ECU speed signal. So, unless the Haltech GPS module (not the racepack one grrr) is able to supply the required speed signal, the R32 dash pretty much needs to be kept if you want speedo signal to ECU and IC7.

In the R32 wiring (which I believe is same as R33), the ECU speedo input is pin 53.

Easiest place to pick up speedo and fuel level (and handbrake, indicators and high beam) in a 32 is at the dash.

r32-dash.jpg

Calibration for R32 fuel gauge is:r32-fuel.jpg

 

  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Noting the 2 posters above are talking R34 and R33, the R32 setup is quite different again. 

It uses a mechanical drive from the gearbox to the speedo in the dash, and then the speedo itself provides the ECU speed signal. So, unless the Haltech GPS module (not the racepack one grrr) is able to supply the required speed signal, the R32 dash pretty much needs to be kept if you want speedo signal to ECU and IC7.

In the R32 wiring (which I believe is same as R33), the ECU speedo input is pin 53.

Easiest place to pick up speedo and fuel level (and handbrake, indicators and high beam) in a 32 is at the dash.

r32-dash.jpg

Calibration for R32 fuel gauge is:r32-fuel.jpg

 

Ok looks like I need an aftermarket reluctor to set the speed properly as it changes the signal to digital. I think I will buy the Dakota Digital one and see how it works.

 

The fuel sender reqs a fuels sender filter so the gauge reads properly. The GPS uses the DPI input on the Haltech Aux harness

The other option for R32 with original dash is the electronic sender from r33/stagea etc should also fit. It may not be right for the original dash as they assume certain diff ratios, but you calibrate the haltech pulses as described above so that probably doesn't matter.

Keep in mind you lose a lot of functionality without the stock dash. No oil pressure warning. No front torque gauge. No fuel warning light (yes you have a gauge but it's funny how easy that is to miss). No 4wd or ABs warning lights. No Odometer or trip meter. No brake warning light (handbrake/fluid level) etc etc etc

22 hours ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Copy. So just the signal to the proper pin (53 on R33) at the ECU then ground (any ground)? Does the R34 VSS go to the dash first like the R33?

No. Just in case you're talking about a stock ECU. No. You cannot take the AC signal from the gearbox's speed sensor and send it straight to the ECU. The stock ECU expects a square wave PWM signal.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

No. Just in case you're talking about a stock ECU. No. You cannot take the AC signal from the gearbox's speed sensor and send it straight to the ECU. The stock ECU expects a square wave PWM signal.

Sorry, yes I assumed he had a haltech, especially as an IC7 is useless with the stock ecu (Requires a Haltech or OBD2 to function)

1 minute ago, Tobz said:

Sorry, yes I assumed he had a haltech, especially as an IC7 is useless with the stock ecu (Requires a Haltech or OBD2 to function)

I have a Plat Pro w/ IC-7

I brought the GPS but I just recently bought the Dakota Digital speed/Tac calibrator

 

I figure out the wires I need for the DD @ the dash loom. From the VSS a R/Y and R/Gr wire runs up to the dash. Just need figure out which is the signal. 

 

Whether I use the GPS or DD I should get the speedo working. 

 

18 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

They're both the signal. It's AC. Sawtooth. +/-1V or thereabouts.

The GT-R seems different from the others. I found this pinout and it is different from my connector. I only have one wire going into the VSS on plug B. The other wire does go into the 2nd VSS one. I guess how is the other wire a signal or does polarity not matter? No keen on wiring 

20150603_fixedDiagram.jpg

The AC signal from the gearbox sender goes up to the cluster on one of two wires (I don't know which, looks like it will be 15 or 16). The cluster VSS does its interpretation and puts out the speed signal to the ECU on another wire (the opposite of whichever of 15 or 16 is the incoming) and it looks like the speedo gauge hangs off of pin 17, although I'm not sure why it has to go via a plug if it is all internal to the cluster.

The incoming signal will go positive and negative wrt body earth (ie, pin 22) on that wire (15 or 16, whichever is incoming).

The VSS output is 0-5V square wave, on a single wire, wrt body/ECU earth. That could be what they are describing on the above drawing as 2P / VSS.

The rest of the wiring diagram is required to see what wires is connected to what pin. That will answer the question definitively.

14 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The AC signal from the gearbox sender goes up to the cluster on one of two wires (I don't know which, looks like it will be 15 or 16). The cluster VSS does its interpretation and puts out the speed signal to the ECU on another wire (the opposite of whichever of 15 or 16 is the incoming) and it looks like the speedo gauge hangs off of pin 17, although I'm not sure why it has to go via a plug if it is all internal to the cluster.

The incoming signal will go positive and negative wrt body earth (ie, pin 22) on that wire (15 or 16, whichever is incoming).

The VSS output is 0-5V square wave, on a single wire, wrt body/ECU earth. That could be what they are describing on the above drawing as 2P / VSS.

The rest of the wiring diagram is required to see what wires is connected to what pin. That will answer the question definitively.

I looked again with good light and the Wires are Y/P and R/Gray.

They go into pins 15 and 17 on the plug B. Pin 16 Y/Green go to pin 53 on the ECU loom.

  • 2 weeks later...

I got my IC-7 hooked up.

Fuel Level and the speedo are now GTG.

The Haltech fuel sender conditioner is easy to setup. just need to get the voltage for empty/full and plug it in the the ECU.

I ended up using the SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface w/bluetooth. Easy to install once I figured out the wire color of the speed sender wires. The Dakota Digital app is alot easier to use then on the module. Just calibrate while using a GPS speedo app. There are seven different setups for the speedo. #6 is what is used. Once I got the speed set the gear indicator/ ODO/ trip on the IC-7 moved properly as well. I installed a fresh speedo sender as well.

 

You can also use the Haltech GPS module, but its not for use with the Platinum Pro software unless you wire in a pull-down resistor off the DPI input.

 

Hi-Beam / turn signals / E-brake are gtg as well. I will wire up a new oil pressure sensor at a later date.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
1 minute ago, SHOWOFFR32 said:

Well done mate! 
 

post up some photos of the install!

Will Do!

 

Still waiting on the cluster surround from 3D Race Solutions. It will get delivered next week. I'll take some proper snaps once my interior is all buttoned up.

20201030_200911.jpg

4 hours ago, Tobz said:

Ooo the other thing the original dash handles the lights on warning chime for the headlights

I personally didn't have issue with this. The parking light chime came on w/o the OEM cluster plugged in. May be an issue only for the R34s

 

Additionally, I ran leads from the charge wire and ignition +12v to the factory bulb. I just bent the small leads off the bulb and wrapped the wires around them. I then just taped it all together. Its just dangling near the blinker relay. It's a temp fix that I'm sure will be permanent after I forget about it.

 

On 10/30/2020 at 8:01 PM, SHOWOFFR32 said:

Well done mate! 
 

post up some photos of the install!

Finally installed

20201105_174125.jpg

20201105_174344.jpg

20201105_175450.jpg

20201105_181920.jpg

Edited by SLVRBAKSLPZ
Added photo
  • Like 2

Interior looks amazing dude, the dash suits it so well, I've been tossing up with either an IC-7, microtech or AIM  dash, also where did you get the AC control unit moulding from, I like that location

 

overall was this an easy install and would you recommend it ? if yes could u do a quick run down of all the wires u spliced into n stuff, i want a dash for my 33 but I'm lazy as f**k with wiring ( do it every day with work ) and can never be bothered wiring shit on my own car haha

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