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  On 06/11/2020 at 1:48 AM, Lamsr334door said:

Interior looks amazing dude, the dash suits it so well, I've been tossing up with either an IC-7, microtech or AIM  dash, also where did you get the AC control unit moulding from, I like that location

 

overall was this an easy install and would you recommend it ? if yes could u do a quick run down of all the wires u spliced into n stuff, i want a dash for my 33 but I'm lazy as f**k with wiring ( do it every day with work ) and can never be bothered wiring shit on my own car haha

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Lol i get it man. Its like all the landscapers with $h!tțy yards.

It took a bit to figure out the wiring and what all was need as the speedo converts some signals. Overall it was an easy task once it was all clear.

Scan thru this post. I posted a link on a how-to for the fuel sender.

Speedo wiring to the aftermarket calibrator/ charge light info is in here as well

You will have to wire the hi-beams/turn signals/e-brake/parking light directly to the units connectors (IC-7). I took pics of the back of my oem cluster which is used to find which wires I needed to t-tap into. Sorry I dont remember the colors of them.

 

The HVAC/shifter surround is from Garage Yoshida

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I was curious  on wiring the the signals, hi beams, e brake, You just take a wire from the back of ic7 and then tap it directly into the plug off the cluster? I briefly tried it and it wouldnt illuminate on the ic7 dash, Is there something im missing?

  On 08/11/2020 at 6:27 AM, R324u said:

I was curious  on wiring the the signals, hi beams, e brake, You just take a wire from the back of ic7 and then tap it directly into the plug off the cluster? I briefly tried it and it wouldnt illuminate on the ic7 dash, Is there something im missing?

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Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions. 

Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.

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exactly, you literally just tap the correct wires at the dash because they all operate the way the dash requires, including the handbrake. (potentially excluding speed and fuel level sender as discussed above)

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  On 08/11/2020 at 7:49 AM, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions. 

Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.

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Ok that was the issue wasn’t seated all the way, I Ran a test wire through but I can’t seem to find the the little deustch connectors, did the ic7 come with them or am I going crazy ? 

C2CAEF67-A3C2-41E8-8671-A8F35971846A.jpeg

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  On 03/04/2020 at 6:31 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

Sounds good. Fingers crossed it's only the charge light that I need to retain. 

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I’m assuming you’re referring the battery light (wire) on the stock cluster ?

  On 11/11/2020 at 4:42 PM, R324u said:

I’m assuming you’re referring the battery light (wire) on the stock cluster ?

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The battery light in the dash cluster is the charge light. Have a read through the whole thread, it's been covered off already. 

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  On 20/10/2020 at 8:47 PM, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

I used the fuel sender value I found on HERE

I really didnt want to pull the sender out at the time. I'm curious to see your readings

 

On a side note you may need the Haltech GPS module to clock the speed correct for the IC-7. The speedo signal goes to the OEM cluster before the ECU which makes it a pain to get the speed correct.

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So for the fuel level, it’s literally one wire to get it to work and it should self ground from the pump? No Matter how I configure it it does not work correctly anyone have any ideas ? I’m using the far left wire in picture for the fuel gauge 

2EC1D327-0B42-41F9-84BB-5B211F7E3899.jpeg

  On 12/11/2020 at 7:25 PM, R324u said:

So for the fuel level, it’s literally one wire to get it to work and it should self ground from the pump? No Matter how I configure it it does not work correctly anyone have any ideas ? I’m using the far left wire in picture for the fuel gauge 

2EC1D327-0B42-41F9-84BB-5B211F7E3899.jpeg

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Gonna need the fuel level sender conditioner. Haltech makes one

 

On Haltech ECUs the signal wire goes into one of the AVI inputs

20201112_163142.jpg

  On 08/11/2020 at 7:49 AM, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions. 

Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.

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Ok that was the issue wasn’t seated all the way, I Ran a test wire through but I can’t seem to find the the little deustch connectors, did the ic7 come with them or am I going crazy 

  On 13/11/2020 at 12:09 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

Haltech have just updated the IC7, you can feed the raw fuel level signal straight into the dash now if that's easier.

 

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God damn it.... that would have been helpful when I did mine. At least I can swap it now and free up an avi for the haltech for the oil temp sensor

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  On 13/11/2020 at 2:30 AM, R324u said:

Yes I’ve tried to put it through the dash, just as the update but it does not do anything for me, idk I called haltech and they really didn’t help much either. Gonna have to keep messing with it 

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I wired mine up about an hr ago and it worked..

The the red/gray wire for signal (i used pin 18

The teal wire is the ground for pin 30

 

Make sure to select the correct channel for the AVI you used. And use 90-0 ohm

 

The you select the spot on your dash for the fuel level choose the AVI, not fuel level.

 

You still are required to adjust the voltage. 

 

 

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  On 13/11/2020 at 2:35 AM, Tobz said:

God damn it.... that would have been helpful when I did mine. At least I can swap it now and free up an avi for the haltech for the oil temp sensor

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Rt. I will keep both hooked up and see with one reads the most accurate. As of now I feel like the oem to dash is better.

 

My fuel level conditioner does a weird thing where it reads high then levels out after about 30secs. Im sure its something I can adjust in the ecu. The oem just reads the level instantly 

  On 13/11/2020 at 2:39 AM, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Rt. I will keep both hooked up and see with one reads the most accurate. As of now I feel like the oem to dash is better.

 

My fuel level conditioner does a weird thing where it reads high then levels out after about 30secs. Im sure its something I can adjust in the ecu. The oem just reads the level instantly 

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Be interesting to see if tue oem to dash bounces around more while driving

  On 13/11/2020 at 2:43 AM, Tobz said:

Be interesting to see if tue oem to dash bounces around more while driving

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I will investigate soon. I also have to see if my voltage setting are correct as well once I fill up.

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  On 13/11/2020 at 2:35 AM, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

I wired mine up about an hr ago and it worked..

The the red/gray wire for signal (i used pin 18

The teal wire is the ground for pin 30

 

Make sure to select the correct channel for the AVI you used. And use 90-0 ohm

 

The you select the spot on your dash for the fuel level choose the AVI, not fuel level.

 

You still are required to adjust the voltage. 

 

 

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I was able to make some progress on it  last night by doing this just saw your post., I had to set the dash to default, what car are you using this on an r32?  I’m using pin 21/ 30 for the ground but those wire colors  you mentioned don’t match up to what I have so I’m guessing you have a diff chassis 

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