Jump to content
SAU Community

2012 Rogue Problem - No RPM increase in drive/reverse/neutral when gas pedal is pushed, fine in park.


Recommended Posts

I start the car. Push the brake, shift to drive. Push the pedal. It goes forward slightly but then goes back to idle rpm. Flooring the pedal lets me get to ~1500rpm, maybe 2k if I trick it into it, but never move forward again.

Same happens for reverse. It even happens if I start it in neutral and just try to rev it, no increase in power.

This happened after I changed the oil. It's at dead center between H and L on the dip stick (the oil that came out exactly filled the jugs the new stuff came from). I also cleaned the air filter and topped off brake fluid.

41 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

CVT f**ked. No internet diagnosis beyond that possible.

Which pretty much means car f**ked

 

 

 

 

What did you do exactly to change the oil? And what oil?

4 hours ago, FrankCade said:

This happened after I changed the oil. It's at dead center between H and L on the dip stick

If you mean the trans oil, oil level is checked with engine running and auto in park or neutral, if you filled the same amount that came out and its low, its been low for a loooooong time.

On 4/6/2020 at 12:24 PM, FrankCade said:

I start the car. Push the brake, shift to drive. Push the pedal. It goes forward slightly but then goes back to idle rpm. Flooring the pedal lets me get to ~1500rpm, maybe 2k if I trick it into it, but never move forward again.

Same happens for reverse. It even happens if I start it in neutral and just try to rev it, no increase in power.

This happened after I changed the oil. It's at dead center between H and L on the dip stick (the oil that came out exactly filled the jugs the new stuff came from). I also cleaned the air filter and topped off brake fluid.appvalley tutuapp tweakbox

If you mean the trans oil, oil level is checked with engine running and auto in park or neutral, if you filled the same amount that came out and its low, its been low for a loooooong time.

 
  • 7 months later...

       I had the same thing happen to me last year on my 2010 rogue. It was the TB. That being said I had a check engine pop up though instantly. I could barely rev above idle and I had zero power. I turned it off/on a couple times and it went away and never came back.

If ever it's your CVT, our transmission warranties were extended to 10 years over here in Canada(Presumably worldwide) as Nissan was aware of issues. Mine was fine but I had it replaced last year before the warranty ran out... I just made shit up about it making noise on the highway and It was replaced 2-3 days later. 

Cheers. 

Edited by TurboTapin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...