Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm guessing at the end of the day, whatever the results the motor isn't going to be repaired to fix the compression issues ?

Be interesting to document the compression over a few months and see if it becomes more consistent

  • Like 2

An update. A couple of days ago I put 20ml of Subaru upper engine cleaner into each cylinder and left it over night. 
The following day I went for a drive and tested it again, here are the results.

CYL1: 140
CYL2: 110
CYL3: 115
CYL4: 120
CYL5: 120
CYL6: 130

I came to a conclusion. I am just going to enjoy the car and not worry too much about it.

I have been a bit delayed in replying because I have been busy the last couple of days fitting the GT3076 back to the car, so I can just send it.

 The car will of course be getting a re-tune once its fitted, just for peace of mind.

CYL 1: 130
CYL 2: 90
CYL 3: 130
CYL 4: 80
CYL 5: 90
CYL 6: 95

CYL1: 90

CYL2: 85

CLY3: 90

CYL4: 90

CYL5: 100

CYL6: 100

 

CYL1: 145
CYL2: 115
CYL3: 120
CYL4: 125
CYL5: 130
CYL6: 142.5

CYL1: 140
CYL2: 110
CYL3: 115
CYL4: 120
CYL5: 120
CYL6: 130

 You would expect to see consistency between tests.  The overall results don't have enough of this IMO.  You are creating your own concerns.  Until you get this consistency, you don't know what your motor is like and are probably worrying over nothing..

  • Like 1
On 01/05/2020 at 4:16 PM, brentos said:

I have been a bit delayed in replying because I have been busy the last couple of days fitting the GT3076 back to the car, so I can just send it.

Excellent choice.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...