Jump to content
SAU Community

Any have experience with Mishimoto intercoolers

Pattey21

By Pattey21,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pattey21 Proficient

Pattey21

Posted
Posted

Good morning all,

I've been doing some maintenance on my r33 and reckon I can make a convention cross flow intercooler fit custom return piping, utilising half my existing return flow piping.

Has anyone used Mishimoto intercoolers before there particularly the m-line or s-line and how this compares to say a Hdi.

Worth noting used in P98 setup hi teens boost 250-300kw range.

https://www.mishimoto.com.au/mishimoto-universal-intercooler-large.html?utm_source=facebookAU&utm_campaign=DPA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz8rdjISF6QIVTyUrCh2U0QHYEAQYASABEgINb_D_BwE

https://www.mishimoto.com.au/mishimoto-universal-front-mount-intercooler-s-line.html

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've used an Mishimoto 600x300x65 mm years ago on my R33 GTR it wasn't any better then the stock cooler. That was later upgraded to a 600x300x100mm which worked ok, car made 410awkws. Pretty much as what you would expect from an cheap ebay cooler, and it was only half the price back then.  

Edited by hypergear
  • Like 1
Pattey21 Proficient

Pattey21

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Plan was to use something like this feeding the hotside to the top left. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/293552927719

I know 180deg bends aren't ideal but surely one bending over 300mm (my current return flow intercooler is 300mm high and hotside runs underneath without clearance issues)

Is better flowing than the sharp turn standard returns flows run.

 

Pattey21 Proficient

Pattey21

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If you're after a cheap intercooler that is somewhat decent for the price point, those HDi GT2 cores aren't bad, just that link you sent is of a CT2? 

Haha I was like "what's a CT2 as well"

I think he meant to write GT2 as the stamp on the intercooler on top in one of the pics.

Pattey21 Proficient

Pattey21

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, WR33KD said:

I’m running a cheap cooler and it’s doing it’s job for over 400kw. Think it set me back $200. 

On e85? Cooler matters a bit more for 98

Edited by Pattey21
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, Pattey21 said:

Cooler matters a bit more for 98

Coolers matter much more than a bit on 98.

Old setup I was making 372kW at the rear treads on a Mainline dyno w/ 1.7bar of boost going through a dim sum bokchoy eBay special FMIC with intake temps of 65+ degrees Celsius however that was on E85.

Would be knock city on 98RON with those intake temperatures.

WR33KD Collaborator

WR33KD

Posted
Posted

Intake temps on a hot summers day get up around 50 and that’s on 98 going for a retune in the next couple weeks going to push for 500kw on pump. 
intake temps are always low with mine has great flow and even the water doesn’t go much passed 95 on the track 

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
16 minutes ago, WR33KD said:

Intake temps on a hot summers day get up around 50 and that’s on 98 going for a retune in the next couple weeks going to push for 500kw on pump. 
intake temps are always low with mine has great flow and even the water doesn’t go much passed 95 on the track 

...and you live in New Zealand don't you ? Define a hot summers day. Ambient temps are quite a lot lower there on average.

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

? Very lucky, you have quite ideal forced induction weather over there. I consider 30deg C quite a cool, moderate day where I am. Even places like Melbourne and Adelaide go well past 40 C these days in summer.

So by the way where are you located Pattey21 ?

Pattey21 Proficient

Pattey21

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, BK said:

? Very lucky, you have quite ideal forced induction weather over there. I consider 30deg C quite a cool, moderate day where I am. Even places like Melbourne and Adelaide go well past 40 C these days in summer.

So by the way where are you located Pattey21 ?

In the ACT. Pretty unfriendly with imports with regards to inspections

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Randhj
      R34 4 door indicator and horn issue

      By Randhj · Posted

      Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • PranK
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PranK · Posted

      Gotta admit, I love the 20b Cosmo.
    • joshuaho96
      Nismo Super Coppermix Twin and R33 GTR transmission replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...