Jump to content
SAU Community

Any have experience with Mishimoto intercoolers

Pattey21

By Pattey21,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

I use 98RON and WMI, no problem but never been pulled up for an inspection either.  I have been pulled over a few times, but generally only RBT or a look at the car and tyres etc....never had to lift the bonnet.  But I don't do epic skidz, no sh1tz and giggles.

Had my WMI for maybe 10 years, I'd need to look up my receipts.

Predator1 Rising Star

Predator1

Posted
Posted
On 29/04/2020 at 5:37 PM, tridentt150v said:

I use 98RON and WMI, no problem but never been pulled up for an inspection either.  I have been pulled over a few times, but generally only RBT or a look at the car and tyres etc....never had to lift the bonnet.  But I don't do epic skidz, no sh1tz and giggles.

Had my WMI for maybe 10 years, I'd need to look up my receipts.

Mind if I ask what your setup is like? RB26? How often do you topup your tank? Failsafe's?

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Gtst so a 25, get over 500km to a tank of 98.  Get over 1,000km to 2.5 litres of water meth.  Its set so that it only injects when you are boosting.  So cruising at 100km/h you aren't really using any.  I have no failsafes, don't really need them.  My motor will show high knock levels if the WMI setup stops working.  But I've not had that happen, plus I set my hand controller up to read knock levels with peak hold and I watch it  just like a speedo or any other gauge...so I'd know if it stopped working.  But again, its only injecting when I'm boosting.

From memory I've set mine up to start at 60% IDC and all in by 80% AND 8psi and all in by 14psi.  But I'd have to check those figures if you really wanted them. 

If I had a Haltech or Link I could maybe set up failsafes, but I have always had a PFC and never really seen the need to change it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...