Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone. As stated in the title, is there a center ring that is suppose to be in there around the hub so it is flush with my rim? Someone at the shop says yes I need one. If not a ring, then is it fine the way it is? I'll order one if needed but what is it called?

20200429_065325.jpg

20200429_065314.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480263-r33-gtst-hub-centric-ring-needed/
Share on other sites

Rb hubs are 66.1mm

Most aftermarket wheels are 73mm and you will need hubcentric rings. What wheels are you using? If they are off another Nissan such as a 350Z etc they will most likely also be 66.1mm

9 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Rb hubs are 66.1mm

Most aftermarket wheels are 73mm and you will need hubcentric rings. What wheels are you using? If they are off another Nissan such as a 350Z etc they will most likely also be 66.1mm

This is a picture of the rim. 

20200429_180637.jpg

Its just a plastic or aluminium ring that takes up the gap between the hub and the wheel centres to locate the wheel when you put it on. The wheel studs do all the work holding the wheel in place.

Yes, this could cause a vibration. In theory if your wheel nuts are tapered as most are the wheel will end up centered on the hub even without the right size wheel bore or hub rings, but if it is even slightly off the wheel will be offset to the centre of the hub and will not turn evenly leading to vibration that increases with speed.

10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If the bore of the wheel is larger than the spigot on the hub, then yes, you need a ring. It's not completely easy to see what's going on there, but it looks like there's no gap.

When driving at higher speeds a feel a vibration through my steering wheel that I'm trying to eliminate. So far I've replace tires and control arms on all 4 sides. Now I have to replace the rear wheel bearing. I'm hoping that eliminates it. Afterwards I'll take her on highway to see if it dissappears. They just mentioned it at a garage about the ring and I wondered if that had to do with the driving. If you guys say there is no gap then I won't bother touching it. 

1 hour ago, Aphonechanh said:

When driving at higher speeds a feel a vibration through my steering wheel that I'm trying to eliminate. So far I've replace tires and control arms on all 4 sides. Now I have to replace the rear wheel bearing. I'm hoping that eliminates it. Afterwards I'll take her on highway to see if it dissappears. They just mentioned it at a garage about the ring and I wondered if that had to do with the driving. If you guys say there is no gap then I won't bother touching it. 

It is unlikely that the absence of a hub ring is causing the vibration.  More likely it will be either a tyre out of balance or related to the wheel bearing (Although thats less likely).

Diameter should be 66.1 on the car and the same on the rim or if it isnt you will probably find that it is 73.1mm.  As has been said, take the wheel off and measure it.

To answer your original question the name of the ring that goes around the hub is hub ring. EG:

https://au.gktech.com/hub-centric-rings-pair

20200305_165901.jpg

20200305_165921.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...