Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone. As stated in the title, is there a center ring that is suppose to be in there around the hub so it is flush with my rim? Someone at the shop says yes I need one. If not a ring, then is it fine the way it is? I'll order one if needed but what is it called?

20200429_065325.jpg

20200429_065314.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480263-r33-gtst-hub-centric-ring-needed/
Share on other sites

Rb hubs are 66.1mm

Most aftermarket wheels are 73mm and you will need hubcentric rings. What wheels are you using? If they are off another Nissan such as a 350Z etc they will most likely also be 66.1mm

9 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Rb hubs are 66.1mm

Most aftermarket wheels are 73mm and you will need hubcentric rings. What wheels are you using? If they are off another Nissan such as a 350Z etc they will most likely also be 66.1mm

This is a picture of the rim. 

20200429_180637.jpg

Its just a plastic or aluminium ring that takes up the gap between the hub and the wheel centres to locate the wheel when you put it on. The wheel studs do all the work holding the wheel in place.

Yes, this could cause a vibration. In theory if your wheel nuts are tapered as most are the wheel will end up centered on the hub even without the right size wheel bore or hub rings, but if it is even slightly off the wheel will be offset to the centre of the hub and will not turn evenly leading to vibration that increases with speed.

10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If the bore of the wheel is larger than the spigot on the hub, then yes, you need a ring. It's not completely easy to see what's going on there, but it looks like there's no gap.

When driving at higher speeds a feel a vibration through my steering wheel that I'm trying to eliminate. So far I've replace tires and control arms on all 4 sides. Now I have to replace the rear wheel bearing. I'm hoping that eliminates it. Afterwards I'll take her on highway to see if it dissappears. They just mentioned it at a garage about the ring and I wondered if that had to do with the driving. If you guys say there is no gap then I won't bother touching it. 

1 hour ago, Aphonechanh said:

When driving at higher speeds a feel a vibration through my steering wheel that I'm trying to eliminate. So far I've replace tires and control arms on all 4 sides. Now I have to replace the rear wheel bearing. I'm hoping that eliminates it. Afterwards I'll take her on highway to see if it dissappears. They just mentioned it at a garage about the ring and I wondered if that had to do with the driving. If you guys say there is no gap then I won't bother touching it. 

It is unlikely that the absence of a hub ring is causing the vibration.  More likely it will be either a tyre out of balance or related to the wheel bearing (Although thats less likely).

Diameter should be 66.1 on the car and the same on the rim or if it isnt you will probably find that it is 73.1mm.  As has been said, take the wheel off and measure it.

To answer your original question the name of the ring that goes around the hub is hub ring. EG:

https://au.gktech.com/hub-centric-rings-pair

20200305_165901.jpg

20200305_165921.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...