Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all, 

Full engine rebuild forge and happy with car however there is no grip or minimal

 

I am thinking of fitting michellen pilot sport 4 s to rear. has anyone fitted this and is it any good?

It was the recommended tyre for m5 . It is currently falken and it is shit as there is no grip and spinning in first , second and third

 

running 500 bhp.

 

I checked tyre pressure today and it was 7 psi on passenger side and I had driven it 200 miles back . car was as wobbly as hell and I am lucky to have survived this ...

 

Would low tyre pressure at rear make car wobbly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480280-tyre-recommendation/
Share on other sites

yes it absolutely would. And no, particular brands of tyres aren't shit, they all have better and worse/cheaper tyres in their range, and as tyres get older they harden and lose grip too

So, I'd look at the performance end of any manufacturer's range, if you are looking for value someone like falken (eg FK510) is a good place because they have performance tyres but don't charge brand premium like michelin, dunlop, bridgestone etc

Personally I've got dunlop dz102 on the stagea which are fine and dunlop sport maxx rt on leaf for road and occasional hillcimb use which are good, but there are a million opinions about performance tyres.

The Michelins  would be good street tyres but I believe they are quite pricey. Have a read through the tyre thread to see what other people have used.

As per Murray's suggestion I had a spare set of wheels with slicks for the track. if you can afford it you could buy new ones. I used to buy used tyres from the V8 racing teams. They were fine for my purposes.

Yokohama AD08R is a good street tyre. I will be going back to these after...

Hankook RS4 which started out as a good tyre but is just as noisy now that they are >50% worn as....

Kumho V720, which is a good tyre but it is excruciatingly noisy after the first 2 weeks.

All of these are about as sticky as road tyres get without being kidney money. None of them are really suited for keeping 500HP in check in 1st of 2nd. If you're not going to go a 2nd set of rims with dedicated semis, then this is the most sensible territory to be looking in.

As the other guys have said, there are other candidates in other manufacturer's ranges.

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yokohama AD08R is a good street tyre. I will be going back to these after...

Hankook RS4 which started out as a good tyre but is just as noisy now that they are >50% worn as....

Kumho V720, which is a good tyre but it is excruciatingly noisy after the first 2 weeks.

All of these are about as sticky as road tyres get without being kidney money. None of them are really suited for keeping 500HP in check in 1st of 2nd. If you're not going to go a 2nd set of rims with dedicated semis, then this is the most sensible territory to be looking in.

As the other guys have said, there are other candidates in other manufacturer's ranges.

Many thanks 

 

are any of these as good as michelen or pilot sport 4s

 

looking at pricing they were £80 each compared to £190 for michellen

 

here people swear by michllen for m5 which is similar power but really struggling to justify £400 for two tyres

Yokohama v105 on my GT-R. 482bhp at the wheels and these tyres hold up very well. Happy to support a local supplier that also does the wheel alignment.

For the Toorak tractor, I take it wherever is convenient and well priced.

3 hours ago, dyl33 said:

Yeah totally but local tyre shop bridgestone reoo3 for example $1400-1600 tyresales $$950-1050. 

Check the dates of manufacture on the sidewall of the tyres from them. Old stock tyres is why they are cheap no thanks.

Just read an Aussie test of ten tyres and Dunlop Sport Max came out on top in most categories. I was looking because my new (to me) car came with a set of brand new HiFly 805 (and they came between 8th and last in everything?).

https://alltyretests.com/hifly-hf805-test-review/

20 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Just read an Aussie test of ten tyres and Dunlop Sport Max came out on top in most categories. I was looking because my new (to me) car came with a set of brand new HiFly 805 (and they came between 8th and last in everything?).

https://alltyretests.com/hifly-hf805-test-review/

That's what I have on my car (dunlop). Fantastic tyre and good value for money.

Edited by trel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...