Jump to content
SAU Community

tyre recommendation

drifter17a
 Share

Recommended Posts

drifter17a Rising Star

drifter17a

Posted
Posted

all, 

Full engine rebuild forge and happy with car however there is no grip or minimal

 

I am thinking of fitting michellen pilot sport 4 s to rear. has anyone fitted this and is it any good?

It was the recommended tyre for m5 . It is currently falken and it is shit as there is no grip and spinning in first , second and third

 

running 500 bhp.

 

I checked tyre pressure today and it was 7 psi on passenger side and I had driven it 200 miles back . car was as wobbly as hell and I am lucky to have survived this ...

 

Would low tyre pressure at rear make car wobbly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480280-tyre-recommendation/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yes it absolutely would. And no, particular brands of tyres aren't shit, they all have better and worse/cheaper tyres in their range, and as tyres get older they harden and lose grip too

So, I'd look at the performance end of any manufacturer's range, if you are looking for value someone like falken (eg FK510) is a good place because they have performance tyres but don't charge brand premium like michelin, dunlop, bridgestone etc

Personally I've got dunlop dz102 on the stagea which are fine and dunlop sport maxx rt on leaf for road and occasional hillcimb use which are good, but there are a million opinions about performance tyres.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

The Michelins  would be good street tyres but I believe they are quite pricey. Have a read through the tyre thread to see what other people have used.

As per Murray's suggestion I had a spare set of wheels with slicks for the track. if you can afford it you could buy new ones. I used to buy used tyres from the V8 racing teams. They were fine for my purposes.

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted

You could start here - 

https://www.nittotire.com/competition-tires/

Or here - 

https://www.federaltire.com/en/products_detail.php?class=Federal-Motorsports&products_detail_sn=3

Or if you have $$$, here - 

https://www.racedivision.com.au/products/yokohama-advan-a050-motorsport-tyre?variant=22653045112917

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Yokohama AD08R is a good street tyre. I will be going back to these after...

Hankook RS4 which started out as a good tyre but is just as noisy now that they are >50% worn as....

Kumho V720, which is a good tyre but it is excruciatingly noisy after the first 2 weeks.

All of these are about as sticky as road tyres get without being kidney money. None of them are really suited for keeping 500HP in check in 1st of 2nd. If you're not going to go a 2nd set of rims with dedicated semis, then this is the most sensible territory to be looking in.

As the other guys have said, there are other candidates in other manufacturer's ranges.

drifter17a Rising Star

drifter17a

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yokohama AD08R is a good street tyre. I will be going back to these after...

Hankook RS4 which started out as a good tyre but is just as noisy now that they are >50% worn as....

Kumho V720, which is a good tyre but it is excruciatingly noisy after the first 2 weeks.

All of these are about as sticky as road tyres get without being kidney money. None of them are really suited for keeping 500HP in check in 1st of 2nd. If you're not going to go a 2nd set of rims with dedicated semis, then this is the most sensible territory to be looking in.

As the other guys have said, there are other candidates in other manufacturer's ranges.

Many thanks 

 

are any of these as good as michelen or pilot sport 4s

 

looking at pricing they were £80 each compared to £190 for michellen

 

here people swear by michllen for m5 which is similar power but really struggling to justify £400 for two tyres

Robzilla32 Mentor

Robzilla32

Posted
Posted

Yokohama v105 on my GT-R. 482bhp at the wheels and these tyres hold up very well. Happy to support a local supplier that also does the wheel alignment.

For the Toorak tractor, I take it wherever is convenient and well priced.

trel Mentor

trel

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, dyl33 said:

Yeah totally but local tyre shop bridgestone reoo3 for example $1400-1600 tyresales $$950-1050. 

Check the dates of manufacture on the sidewall of the tyres from them. Old stock tyres is why they are cheap no thanks.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Just read an Aussie test of ten tyres and Dunlop Sport Max came out on top in most categories. I was looking because my new (to me) car came with a set of brand new HiFly 805 (and they came between 8th and last in everything?).

https://alltyretests.com/hifly-hf805-test-review/

trel Mentor

trel

Posted
Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Just read an Aussie test of ten tyres and Dunlop Sport Max came out on top in most categories. I was looking because my new (to me) car came with a set of brand new HiFly 805 (and they came between 8th and last in everything?).

https://alltyretests.com/hifly-hf805-test-review/

That's what I have on my car (dunlop). Fantastic tyre and good value for money.

Edited by trel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • GTSBoy
      AC not coming from top vents

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • Sleepergm
      Custom titanium intake

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...