R34 jacking point

[GTSBoy]

The lower arm pivot points are the points where the lower arms are bolted to the subframe and....pivot.

[silviaz]

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The lower arm pivot points are the points where the lower arms are bolted to the subframe and....pivot.

Ah ok thanks man, I'll take a look at the lower control arm and see where that point is. Hopefully don't find place it on the wrong thing haha.

[Kip]

On 5/19/2020 at 12:14 AM, ChrisW434 said:

Sounds like you need one of these badboys to sit on your trolley jack circle... allows you to lift from the 'pinch' points

Alternatively, buy a handful of hockey pucks (used ones on eBay can be cheap). I've used them for years. For the pinch welds, you can cut a channel in them like in the pic from ChrisW434. For the diff or other jack points, you can use one without cuts to disperse the load across the saddle.

Lots of good info in this thread, btw.

[silviaz]

7 hours ago, Kip said:

Alternatively, buy a handful of hockey pucks (used ones on eBay can be cheap). I've used them for years. For the pinch welds, you can cut a channel in them like in the pic from ChrisW434. For the diff or other jack points, you can use one without cuts to disperse the load across the saddle.

Lots of good info in this thread, btw.

I was thinking of getting that, or at the very least jack it up by the crossmember and put jackstands there with the adapters, but apprently they can still bend (mine are already lol)

[GTSBoy]

On 12/21/2023 at 9:47 AM, silviaz said:

I was thinking of getting that, or at the very least jack it up by the crossmember and put jackstands there with the adapters, but apprently they can still bend (mine are already lol)

Just coming back to this..... What do you mean by "they can still bend"? Are you talking about the "pinch welds" at the jacking points under the sills? If so, then no. There are 2 defined jacking points on each side. These have solid metal pads to carry the load. The "pinch welds" (god I hate that term) carries NO LOAD. It's all on the designated jacking point.

Hockey pucks etc, for use on top of either chassis stands or trolley jacks, are explicitly to apply the load to those hard points and avoid the pinch weld. If they do not do that, then they are not fit for purpose.

[silviaz]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Just coming back to this..... What do you mean by "they can still bend"? Are you talking about the "pinch welds" at the jacking points under the sills? If so, then no. There are 2 defined jacking points on each side. These have solid metal pads to carry the load. The "pinch welds" (god I hate that term) carries NO LOAD. It's all on the designated jacking point.

Hockey pucks etc, for use on top of either chassis stands or trolley jacks, are explicitly to apply the load to those hard points and avoid the pinch weld. If they do not do that, then they are not fit for purpose.

Yep I'm referring to the jacking point under the sill (the re-reinforced part I guess)

What I meant was, from memory I think it was @Duncan that mentioned that sometimes the jacking point under the sill can bend even if you use the adapter, but correct me if I'm wrong on this.

In the future i'll likely just hire a hoist and put the hoist arms under the jacking point sill, to avoid any potential problems.

Edited January 2 by silviaz

[GTSBoy]

21 minutes ago, silviaz said:

I think it was @Duncan that mentioned that sometimes the jacking point under the sill can bend even if you use the adapter, but correct me if I'm wrong on this.

I don't know what Duncan's experience with that problem is, but I struggle to see how you could do it unless you were clumsy. They are designed to lift and support the car.

[silviaz]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

I don't know what Duncan's experience with that problem is, but I struggle to see how you could do it unless you were clumsy. They are designed to lift and support the car.

It might have been someone else on the forum, can't remember 100% But I could have sworn that it was also mentioned on this forum that those sills aren't designed to lift and support the car and it's only for the scissor jack. I'll need to re-check.

[GTSBoy]

49 minutes ago, silviaz said:

it's only for the scissor jack

I cannot see the difference between that, and this....

50 minutes ago, silviaz said:

designed to lift and support the car

 

[silviaz]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

I cannot see the difference between that, and this....

 

i see what you're saying. My line of thought was, the more you jack it up, the more force is in one area causing it to crush that area more. But now thinking about it again it might not make sense because the weight will shift depending on how the car is lifted. 

[GTSBoy]

5 minutes ago, silviaz said:

But now thinking about it again it might not make sense because the weight will shift depending on how the car is lifted. 

Well, that's a problem in itself. If you want to support the car on the jacking points, then you have to lift the car centrally under a subframe or diff, then prop that end with stands under the jacking points. Then you move to the other end and lift it up centrally and do the same. But you can't just ram the thing up into the air by 600mm at one end then go jack up the other, because the silly angles and the changing "grip" of the stand on the jacking point will inevitably lead to the car falling off the stands. So you have to lift a sensible amount at one end, prop it, go do the other end, and go up in bites at each end until it is high enough for what you want/need.

[silviaz]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, that's a problem in itself. If you want to support the car on the jacking points, then you have to lift the car centrally under a subframe or diff, then prop that end with stands under the jacking points. Then you move to the other end and lift it up centrally and do the same. But you can't just ram the thing up into the air by 600mm at one end then go jack up the other, because the silly angles and the changing "grip" of the stand on the jacking point will inevitably lead to the car falling off the stands. So you have to lift a sensible amount at one end, prop it, go do the other end, and go up in bites at each end until it is high enough for what you want/need.

That's what I thought if you wanted the car up high when removing the gearbox for example, so I guess 2 trolley jacks would come in handy to make it easier.

Edited January 3 by silviaz

[GTSBoy]

15 minutes ago, silviaz said:

so I guess 2 trolley jacks would come in handy to make it easier.

So long as you don't try to use them both at the same time!

[silviaz]

37 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

So long as you don't try to use them both at the same time!

Not even possible, unless you have another person but to be honest I thought doing it at the same time was the right idea because it was an even distribution haha

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, silviaz said:

I thought doing it at the same time was the right idea because it was an even distribution haha

Haha for real. Imagine the car pivoting around a point under the diff and a point under the front crossmember. Not a pleasant thought. You need at least 3 points on the ground at any time to be stable. A jack and 2 wheels, or a jack and 2 stands, at minimum.

[joshuaho96]

On 1/2/2024 at 9:14 PM, silviaz said:

That's what I thought if you wanted the car up high when removing the gearbox for example, so I guess 2 trolley jacks would come in handy to make it easier.

I have gotten the car off the ground before on all 4 corners with only one floor jack. Jack up the front first to the lowest stop on a 2 or 3 ton jack stand set. Set it down on the stands and then jack up the rear to the same height. Repeat until you're at the top of the jack stand travel. If you need more height you can swap out the 2 ton stands for 6 ton stands or something similar halfway through. It's annoying and a lot slower than a 2 post lift or a quickjack but I don't have space for either of those.

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

I have gotten the car off the ground before on all 4 corners with only one floor jack. Jack up the front first to the lowest stop on a 2 or 3 ton jack stand set. Set it down on the stands and then jack up the rear to the same height. Repeat until you're at the top of the jack stand travel. If you need more height you can swap out the 2 ton stands for 6 ton stands or something similar halfway through. It's annoying and a lot slower than a 2 post lift or a quickjack but I don't have space for either of those.

Just sounds like a regular weekend at my place. Going to happen this week so I can replace all the sphericals in my FUCAs.

[silviaz]

On 1/5/2024 at 11:15 AM, GTSBoy said:

Just sounds like a regular weekend at my place. Going to happen this week so I can replace all the sphericals in my FUCAs.

A potentially stupid question but if I'm using a hoist I assume for skylines it's fine to put the hoist arms (from a 2 post lift) under the jacking point sills yeah? I looked at some google images but people tend to put it on the edge of the chassis rail and put a block of wood, which is interesting, considering the sills seem to be a popular spot.

Edited January 13 by silviaz

[GTSBoy]

You should only use a 2 post lift under the sill jacking points if you have suitable adapters on the lift pads to touch the car ONLY only the surfaces either side of the pinchweld. Where the OEM jack would touch the car. Same as if using chassis stands there. So that would be either rubber, or preferably steel block with a slot in them.

The chassis rails are not strong enough anywhere to carry the weight of the car. If you spread it out over a really large area with a block of wood....yeah, maybe. But that's not real secure. I'd be wanting to make an adapter of some sort that fit along and up the sides of the rails at least 5-10mm, to reduce the chance of it slipping sideways, and that adapter would want to be fastened to the lifting pad well, too. I've never seen anybody go that far though.

[silviaz]

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You should only use a 2 post lift under the sill jacking points if you have suitable adapters on the lift pads to touch the car ONLY only the surfaces either side of the pinchweld. Where the OEM jack would touch the car. Same as if using chassis stands there. So that would be either rubber, or preferably steel block with a slot in them.

The chassis rails are not strong enough anywhere to carry the weight of the car. If you spread it out over a really large area with a block of wood....yeah, maybe. But that's not real secure. I'd be wanting to make an adapter of some sort that fit along and up the sides of the rails at least 5-10mm, to reduce the chance of it slipping sideways, and that adapter would want to be fastened to the lifting pad well, too. I've never seen anybody go that far though.

I've seen 2 post lifts that usually have something like this, not an adapter. Most people don't use adapters from what I've seen (non skylines I guess), would that image below be suitable in your opinion? Otherwise I might have to see an adapter that I can buy.

Something like this seems like a good option? https://classiclift.com.au/product/square-shape-rubber-pad-part201106/

Edited January 13 by silviaz