Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just acquired the M35 250RSTurbo and have a post up elsewhere but thought this topic needed it's own identity .

I have read up about the 3200 CFM fan and the failures of going to electric  thermo fans .

It seems to me that if you consistently require that kind of cfm then perhaps the radiator is a bit undersized .

We all know that after about 40 Kph there is more air coming in than the fan can pull so we want the fan to stop otherwise it impedes the incoming air blah blah blah .

I am very unhappy with the roar and would have gone to good quality thermo's but having read up about do not need to follow suit .

However being the same as the V35 chassis I decided to check out the later 3.5 engined [ is that a word ?? ]  V35 and they have thermo fans but still the tiny single row radiator .

Was that a cost cutting exercise to have a viscous...Yuk !!

Anyhow the intent was to get a V35 radiator with fans knowing that the radiator will bolt in to M35 but the fan shroud might not bolt to the M35 radiator .

Whew , did you get that , was dam hard to write .

So couldn't get a radiator but do have the shroud with the twin fans , will be checking if it swaps in later today .

I'm not noble enough to believe I might be the only one to think of this or maybe I am ??

Has this been done ?

Was it successful ??

I think a twin row radiator will help as well and seeing that the tanks fail will go an all alloy radiator in the future , what is everybody else running .

Thoughts please including if you think I'm a raving lunatic !!

Edited by M35.Groot
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480452-m35-viscous-fan-mods/
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, M35.Groot said:

Was that a cost cutting exercise to have a viscous...Yuk !!

No. Wrong statement.

If you have a lot of fan noise, then the problem is the viscous clutch is stuffed and all you need to do is replace it with a GENUINE NISSAN clutch. Do not f**k about with aftermarket off brand clutches, because they all suck compared to the genuine Nissan one.

I know about these things.

 

I'm sure you do know about these things  however if you read the post carefully you will note I'm going to use genuine NISSAN fans from a NISSAN V35 and shroud not some random aftermarket fans .

Also I wish to eliminate the 6Hp odd loss that a viscous fan sucks away .

My car is still running the stock pithy radiator and I'm aware they fail so will fit an all alloy twin core radiator to avoid that which can't hurt .

 

Where is your evidence that the stock radiators fail more than any other...and will your all alloy twin core radiator exactly fit the V35 shroud?

How does the  fan suck 6hp away? It is only operating at idle or in traffic. At normal speed the clutch is disengaged .

Presumably your twin electric fans work the same way. From whence comes the power to drive them if not from the engine?

With the km your car has done you should probably be saving up for a new turbo or timing chain (after you have replaced your fan if it is faulty).

Wow !!

Don't want to upset anyone , chill the whiskey factory guys ? .

First the radiator thing , I'm not saying it fails more than any other , however in the last two nights I have read at least 8 posts from different people that their radiator plastic tank has split , to me that means at 16 plus  years old and however many K's the tanks split , I will be wise and replace it before that  happens .

V35 radiators bolt straight in and so do the air box's , what I don't know is if the shrouds swap over , I now have a V35 shroud with twin fans so will let you know .

I will get an all alloy twin row oven brazed V35 radiator that I know will bolt straight in to the M35 with the V35 airbox .

 

Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/All-Aluminum-Radiator-For-04-07-Nissan-Skyline-V35-350-GT-V6-Petrol-AT-2-Row/292747369595?fits=Plat_Gen%3AV35&epid=20024291071&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item44291a5c7b:g:39IAAOSwlY1ZGWtm&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKMy1HQ5tqr4SizEZhU4A6p24OFt7rJh%2BdO2BEZmEPDW6%2FdjjBov%2BrSFU6l4fpRZl7yhLriYPIhwb7o5FTsYdxhb9OKP7OwzPAHwluI1Sgu7m90%2FJPzyf2KcEfSjKUMNNKb4k%2BofdpFVGNxlyCFrTifEPDiNBvEEBjcAXw1LOVimMAgz4L7jUqvyNWZDqGbQLSyDilZWixkqP1436m56%2BGjFdTTX5UVnMTVXDkoWUck0NTxUcJ%2B5bGmCEkPrY%2FjDy6vEkNus0sKE2OBmzG%2FJiIOE9co5hh2aohSc%2BK41SCIyXWZTbKNNzPAVutlMBYgNxti7b3haPUaQQ8%2B4xmSI%2FkPiEPaVL0p44yOLc9SkkyOCQYtAZ66xYDg1unRrLPjk32Q7u8KOA3oa2Z%2FFtRoZXsKQfGYjUMV0pxmsymTuXNTSxg5XWoeiYBH9LO4gYJQZP7LN6jYG%2BFVKdy8De1U5sLXIun5W2GPd0o7DUnwseEJFakrTVqSMPRGnAvGwIZhAwj0YcZnDpI6Oan9F2sPxeMssVAO1rVzutwd8vvtp9DWe5kiDZQ87JLvcGm%2FllcWoLwHeHBLngW1KqB%2BLZC3CsQK3a%2Bil11ZYxfh9kJptOLYj3eQSdQDc09n%2Bj08iBLckScUmQVTqzyzI28EogKLspt8l56KynEiZvVlRkxRsUhhyWjXikj0xVkTc6ZBPvsbkWXK8Ve2VjuvsY4mP188zjS71cfxpsaKd2hVZOKLc7hUDXrqeiBHjFbHErgxvoEuFI1b1sYCIAUvLSOYcd72XzYAQ%3D%3D&checksum=292747369595139f4f688d414f178dd6023d81e75d32

I would think that a radiator made to replace the V35 radiator would take the same shroud and I have used ebay radiators before with total success .

As to the V35 electric fans I will let you all know how it all goes...good or bad .

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...