Jump to content
SAU Community

I'm wanting to get my RB25 beween 500 & 1000 hp

MrSINNER
 Share

Recommended Posts

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, MrSINNER said:

Cheers bro I'm setting up for street n track I been researching and I'm just going to aim for 500hp I'm going to run a 6 speed manual transmission and I can apparently get a 9 inch diff made 

Realistically 500hp (372kw) can be done without touching the engine. More if you want to consider that 500hp to be flywheel hp and assume it's about 320rwkw.

To do that, all you need is the 'basics' i.e

Fuel System (injectors, pumps)
Intercooler (of any reasonable recommended sort)
Some new turbo and/or manifold/lines to do it. Tbh at this goal you may be within the realm of a Hypergear direct bolt on minimal to-no fabrication turbo.

Depends on goals and budget and such. The rest of the car (diff, gearbox, tailshaft) won't need to change to support that level of grunt. Will need a clutch but I doubt any RB25 is running a stock clutch, on planet earth at all in 2020.

  • Like 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

If you like the roughest nastiest LSD option, then sure.

There are a number of others that are nicer to live with.

but 1000hp cars are never nice to drive

  • Like 2
Steve85 Mentor

Steve85

Posted
Posted

My car has a power level right in the middle of your request. It was 35-45k in parts alone, plus labour (only have 10k in receipts for labour) for someone to put it together, plus tuning, plus the car itself (another couple of k). The good news is all my components are known performers and there's no Chinese knock off items, so in theory (<big theory) it should be strong enough to last many, many years and kms assuming i'm not out launching it from stop lights every night.

You should be able to do it cheaper these days (30 + Single = Simpler setup and better parts now).  

Just don't go into this with your eyes closed. You could make 1000hp easy... once. Making it reliably and having it be able to used in a car (ie getting that power down) isn't as easy the internet might be suggesting to you. 

My two cents, from experience (or someone else's for the most part). I'm not saying don't do it... far from it. I guess i'm saying just think it through, make a bit of a plan. 
Oh and you if you haven't already, you might want to drive something with 500+ kws at the wheels... I thought i was ready. I was not. 

  • Like 3
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...