Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone Chev R here from South Africa.

I am in need from some of the guys that have done this before. I have checked a few threads on turbo that guys suggested and has been been covered.

My need currently is this I am building a Rb30/25 and have got my current turbo specs as follows:

Ar 70 compressor housing

Compressor wheel 58mm

Exhaust housing Ar68

Exhaust wheel 64mm

Now some of the guys I know in the drag seen here advise that the turbo will be perfect down low but will probably choke towards limiter maybe 6000rpm. What is your take on this please need some guidance?

I will be limiting rev range to 7000.

One of the guys I know offered me a turbonetics 7868. I will attach specs as per my research.

What I am after is is my turbo going to.run out of steam higher in the rev range. If someone has had a similar turbo set up?

If so would the turbonetics be a good second option as this is being offered to me at a good price. 

Car will be used for street and once the covid pandemic passes as the race track from time to time.

I would appreciate your honest inputs on this please?

Thank you kindly Brian ( Chev R)Screenshot_20200531-104334_Chrome.thumb.jpg.3711b4707a6f4862baa0415df14cbc0f.jpg

20200530_164524.jpg

20200530_164454.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480525-turbo-advice/
Share on other sites

Do not go to the RB30 dyno results forum, that's a trap and will lead you astray. 

I'll now teach you the four step process to correctly picking a turbo. 

Step 1. Look around your house and find the biggest dinner plate you own. 

Step 2. Bring the dinner plate to your local turbo supply store. 

Step 3. ???

Step 4. Purchase a turbo that is bigger then the dinner plate. 

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480525-turbo-advice/#findComment-7932200
Share on other sites

Hi GTSBoy the idea is to start of with 500hp and gradually increase. Car will be used on the street.

Sub assembly is freshly built but not with forged internals.

If I may ask what do you mean by 84mm? Is this 84mm on the compressor side or exhaust side?

The Turbonetics measures 78mm on the top of the wheel and about 90mm at the bottom .

Exhaust measures 68mm on the top of the wheel and 78mm at the bottom of the wheel.

Comes std with a Ar96 exhaust housing T4

So the intent is still for the car to be responsive and not to have too much lag.

Maybe to start boosting at 3-3500rpm.

Hope this helps

Sorry if I did not understand your response too well.

Murray thanks for your response I gather what you mean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480525-turbo-advice/#findComment-7932226
Share on other sites

Here is an EFR 83mm turbo, the 8374. https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner-efr/turbos-efr-series/borgwarner-efr-8374-turbo-2/

The bottom end of that turbo's range is in the 500HP (engine) region. Can make a lot more.

Here is an EFR 91mm turbo, the 9180. http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/files/pdf/dimensional_reference/efr/EFR%209180-C.pdf

Obviously the 9180 is ~20% bigger than the 8374.

These things work at really high pressure ratios.

 

I just pitched you big turbo sizes because you're talking about a 3L twin cam. It is a decent sized engine that can definitely drive a big turbo. But if you don't think you will be needing to go near 800+ engine powers, then smaller options make sense.

There are many smaller EFRs. The Garret G series has lots of options too. The latest gen GTX turbos are still worth a look. Even BW SX turbos are good for more crude (and a bit cheaper) applications.

One thing you will have to pay attention to is the inlet and outlet style and size on the exhaust side (no point buying a T4 flanged turbo if you have a T3 manifold, for example), and whether you need to add one or more big external wastegates. Another thing to think abotu is that a proper twin-scroll turbine inlet and manifold is the very best idea. Not all of these turbos offer all these things at all sizes. You will have to pick what is most important to you and live with the compromises.

You could also get a Turbo from Hypergear here in Oz. He will have something that will do the job for you. Very "offbrand", but decent gear nonetheless. Much better than that horrible Turbonetics thing.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480525-turbo-advice/#findComment-7932227
Share on other sites

Hi GTSBoy intake not of all the info and really appreciate all the guidelines. Very detailed.

Will have to decide where I would like to be. 

Just had a thought I can possibly also upgrade my turbo to a 62mm inducer and 84mm exducer on the compressor wheel to a billet 7 blade or 11 blade. Will have to machine my compressor housing to fit.

And leave the turbine as is as it measures about 64mm inducer and 74mm exducer with Ar68 housing.

Once again thanks for the responses helps to have a clearer path of where I want to go.

Will also research some other turbo options on the Garrett range.?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480525-turbo-advice/#findComment-7932234
Share on other sites

Long time reader of SAU just created my account so can learn and share easier with users here.

Hi Brian, to be clear of your current turbo, it has 58 mm inducer (smaller diameter) compressor and 64 mm exducer (smaller diameter) turbine?

If your turbine has around 74 mm inducer (bigger diameter) then you seem to have a T4 P-Trim turbine wheel, which was used in Garret and HKS T04Z and were popular for RB26 and 2JZ in the 2000's. Its old technology but can work well as its still used in Garrett new GTW3884 (update of Garrett T04R/Z), and you can see from the turbine map at Garrett website that it has 73% peak turbine efficiency, better than newer GT35 GT40 turbines which has the closest flow rate to T4 P trim turbine.

T04R/Zs have 66-67 mm inducer 84 mm exducer compressor good for 750 hp, while GTW3884s have 62-64-67 mm inducer compressor options rated by Garrett up to 800-900=950 hp.

If you can source billet 62-67 mm inducer 84 mm exducer compressor then you will make an aftermarket wheeled GTW3884. Just make sure to order compressor wheel with the same bore size as your turbine shaft as there are small shaft and big shaft versions of T4 P trim turbine.

Turbonetics 7868 is a bigger turbo, it uses Turbonetics better flowing version of Garrett T4 Q trim turbine, one size up from a T4 P trim turbine. For your target of 500 hp a 7868 turbine is overkill as the T4 P Trim turbine has made over 800 whp when used in GTW 3884 67 mm inducer compressor. So iI suggest its better to use your current turbo assuming it has a T4 P trim turbine and update it with a billet compressor (bigger compressor inducer means lazier response but higher max hp).

If you want to optimise response you can also get a T4 twin scroll turbine housings for T4 P trim turbine, you can google AGP turbo and ATP turbo from USA for example to source those housings. In my experience converting to a twin scroll set up even with a single wastegate exhaust manifold similar to a 6 Boost RB25 manifold it gives quicker spool up with no loss of top end max hp. Hope this helps.

Rian.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480525-turbo-advice/#findComment-7932245
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...