Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi again Matty. Yes same, rail upgrade no. Denso based 10.5 or 11mm injectors all fit into the standard rail. Nearly all of these older direct fit injectors are all made by Denso - Nismo, Power Enterprise, Tomei, Sard, Blitz

I suggest you go bigger than 550cc though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480529-rb-26-injectors/#findComment-7932190
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, Matty George said:

Ha well loyal to Nismo??? Suggestions?

What? Nismo are the same shit as that Sard shit.

Bosch, Denso, Siemens et al have all been producing newer design injectors over the 20 years since those Sards were state of the art (if they ever were). Any Bosch EV14 based injector is going to be a millions times better. Shit, even an EV6 based injector will be nearly 2 decades newer tech.

There are hundreds of vendors selling EV14 or equivalent Denso (and other manufacturers) injectors with conversion plugs, rail spacers, and flow matched sets. Here's just one example in Australia, at Goleby's https://www.golebysparts.com.au/products/rb26-bpp-fuel-rail-kit-bosch-1000cc-injectors-fpr800-fuel-regulator?variant=31930369081453

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480529-rb-26-injectors/#findComment-7932204
Share on other sites

I run the old Denso 700cc on the 33 and they are at about 75% duty cycle at 330kw on 98. On the 32 I went from the Denso 1000cc to the Bosch EV14 1550cc - heaps better.

Get the Bosch EV14 1000cc as Gtsboy said, best idea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480529-rb-26-injectors/#findComment-7932206
Share on other sites

My advice is if you have a lazy tuner, don't get the Bosch 1480cc aka 1550cc aka 1650cc (they're actually 1480cc but everyone likes to call them the 1650cc).

Their true code is 0280158334

Reason why I suggest against it if you have a lazy tuner? they're sensitive to fuel temperature and if you don't build out that fuel density vs. temperature vs. ethanol content table they will run like shit.

Most tuners don't bother with this, however a silver lining is that if you have a Link ECU that table is pre-defined.

Also Nismo injectors, FPR, etc. are overpriced and dated. It's 2020 no 1999, imagine trying to use Instagram to look at instahoes on a Nokia E61.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480529-rb-26-injectors/#findComment-7932209
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Matty George said:

Thanks men... I understand the Nismo sate older tech but they still do the job. Yeh Bosch were my other option which I’ll look at getting from kudos.

The Bosch ones from Kudos are the 980cc / 1000cc ones, not sure why they are advertising as 1250cc. Same thing as from Golebys, EFI hardware, EFI solutions, NZEFI and so on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480529-rb-26-injectors/#findComment-7932214
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, BK said:

The Bosch ones from Kudos are the 980cc / 1000cc ones, not sure why they are advertising as 1250cc. Same thing as from Golebys, EFI hardware, EFI solutions, NZEFI and so on.

Dick measuring contest, false advertisement at 4bar base pressure. Shortfall with running high base pressures is that you put enormous strain on your fuel delivery system to keep up.

4 bar base + 2 bar boost = 6 bar of fuel pressure. As you add fuel pressure, flow rate drops & current draw increases. Both increasing fuel temperature and reducing fuel density.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480529-rb-26-injectors/#findComment-7932228
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Dick measuring contest, false advertisement at 4bar base pressure. Shortfall with running high base pressures is that you put enormous strain on your fuel delivery system to keep up.

4 bar base + 2 bar boost = 6 bar of fuel pressure. As you add fuel pressure, flow rate drops & current draw increases. Both increasing fuel temperature and reducing fuel density.

You can get a flatter flow rate vs fuel pressure curve and a flatter fuel pressure vs current draw curve with brushless fuel pumps these days. I believe the R35s run 3.5 bar base fuel pressure to improve atomization. Everything is a trade-off.

 

6 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

If you want to stay true to Nismo/OEM and want modernized injectors, just get R35 OEM injectors.  570cc and very good atomization.

I would say this is the way to go as well. Just keep in mind that fakes are everywhere, be very careful to source genuine parts if you go this route and get your injectors characterized if you can for various offset tables in your ECU of choice. Other thing to think about is whether you want to run E85 or not. If you do I don't think the ~550cc class injectors will flow enough. You want closer to 750cc in that case. Closest things that are actually modern injectors are either the SARD 850cc high impedance injectors or the Bosch 980cc mentioned already in this thread. The SARD injectors are Denso parts, just not sure what the OE application was. Bosch 980cc was originally used in some Renault I believe. 

I don't recommend ID injectors, maybe it matters if you want accurate/repeatable fuel delivery down to 0.2ms of effective injector open time or 10 bar of fuel pressure or whatever but their injectors lack the diffuser plate used in most modern injectors which causes the spray to go straight into the divider walls between the valves, which increases the amount of wall wetting and makes it harder to get transient fueling nailed down as a result. They're optimizing for an extreme that doesn't make sense if you want 300 kw with -9s.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480529-rb-26-injectors/#findComment-7932249
Share on other sites

Haha yeah there are so many fake R35 injectors out there.  However R35 guys junk them pretty much as soon as they take delivery of their cars, so just contact a shop that works on R35 and they probably have a pile just sitting and collecting dust.  I got mine for $70 USD, plus I paid another $110 USD to have them cleaned and flow tested, not bad for a set of barely used quality OEM injectors.

Also 570cc is the flow rate at 3 bar, but they are actually designed to run at higher base pressure, so there is still more potential if needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480529-rb-26-injectors/#findComment-7932258
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
×
×
  • Create New...