Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know i always post the dumbest problem, and not wanting to dissapoint, heres another!!:)

the car is making a strange ticking sound when cold, the ticking gets faster with more revs and you cant hear it on when the turbo starts to spool (4000, i dont like reving the cold enigne too much though)

its coming from the left hand side of the engine bay, so possibly turbo. it goes away completely when the engine warms up, any ideas?

thanks everyone!

adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4806-strange-ticking-when-cold/
Share on other sites

I had that problem in my vl RB30E.

It was a lifter getting stuck, it was a loud metallic sound, coming from the top end, if thats what youre getting.

They are meant to compress and take the shock, so you dont hear anything, but if one gets stuck in or out, it will be noisy.

If its doing it while cold, it could be a lack of oil at the top end, check your oil, or maybe an oil duct up the top end is blocked.

Im pretty sure youll be able to tell the difference between this and injector noise.

hope this helps.

Originally posted by adam 32

is this bad? ie long term engine damage?

is there anything i should be doing about this problem or just ignore it?

No, not in short term but you are loosing power due to the valves are not fully closed.

You should either take the hydraulic lifters out and wash them in alcohol. or better is to exchange them to new ones. they usally don't cost mutch, but there is a little time consuming to exchange them.

But this "problem" can also accure when you just have changed oil due to air have come in to the lifters, or if you have changed to a oil that has to low density to make the lifters to work as they should.

Originally posted by adam 32

the car is making a strange ticking sound when cold, ...... it goes away completely when the engine warms up, any ideas?

I also had this problem in my RB30E, and it turned out to be the exhaust manifold gasket.... It had sprung a leak, right at the back, and would make a ticking sound when cold. Once it had warmed up, the sound would go away.

Wont cause any damage, but it gets louder and worse! If you do it yourself, shouldn't cost you more than say $15 - $20 for the gasket. If you take it to a mechanic, it will cost you for labour too! I'd say between $100 - $200.

But in either case, be VERY CAREFUL when taking the bolts of the manifold! Make sure you soak them in WD40 for at least 30 mins!!! Some of the se bolts will break off regardless, but the more broken bolts, the more headaches!

first look to see if any bolts are missing on the exhaust manifold - especially on the last cylinder. If there are, then it is almost certainly your gasket.

You can also put your (wet) hand around it while the engine is cold and being reved!

If none of these yield any results, then remove the manifold and replace the gasket anyhow!

Well if the gasket is gone, then it is a leak.

I dont know how these wreck besides having loose or missing screws on your exhaust manifold. Mine had a missing screw that had brocken off over time (thats how weak these screws are on the RB motors!)

I might be wrong, but I have had this problem and seen it on 2 other skylines, all with the same symptoms you are describing...

Best to take to a mechanic b/c if the screw was loose or off for a while, the manifold warps over time with heat if there is nothing to hold it in place. You might need to get it machined nice and flat!

I helped a mate of mine with his (changed the gasket), and because his screws were missing for a while, the manifold warped. After replacing the gasket, the problem was still there b/c of the warped manifold. So we took it to get it machined, replaced gasket, and problem gone!

It wont cause any damage (if it is a blown gasket), it's just irritating!

If it isn't that, then I cant give you any recomendations b/c I dont know what the problem is and what possible damage can come from it...

Just check one morning when it is cold, by wetting your hand, and placing it in various positions around where the exhaust manifold bolts onto the head, and revving the engine until the sound is very audiable.

Zahos

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...