Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, yesterday, I came back home and when I turned on my street, my engine started stalling and dying out. It was in 1st and I had to keep revving it gently to avoid stalling. It lost all power and wouldn't go above 5km/h.

I wanted to go park it, but 500 meters before my house, everything went back to normal.

First thought, was to check the MAF sensor. I noticed that my HKS filter was disintegrating and had let some particles past the MAF sensor and most likely into the intake, very few though, since most of it was caught in the mesh.

I disassembled it and cleaned it using MAF sensor cleaner and as advised in another post, reset my ECU but unplugging the battery, pressing the brake 3 times and giving it 15 minutes.

Obviously, upon restart the engine was cold, so it idles at about 800-1,000 RPM. I went ahead and warmed it up driving and did a few pulls. No stuttering or any power issue, sounds and feels healthy.

After parking, it started idling strangely like this :

Engine from Cabin - Streamable

Here's what it sounds like from the outside, hear that strange "high pitched" sound ?

Engine from bay - Streamable

I'm no mechanic, but could it be a faulty MAF sensor or idle air control valve ? I'm curious as to why it only happens after the engine warms up though.

I got the car over a week ago, it's 100% stock besides a boost controller set on low boost and this just started.

Thoughts ?

Let's start with the obvious. You, that is you, will have to work out where that noise is coming from. It is probably unrelated to your idle problem. It sounds like it might be the power steering pump, or something else rotating down there, simply because of how it appeared to get louder when you pointed the camera there. But the CAS is in the same general area, and it could be noisy/dying bearings or some other rubbing problem in there. But we can't find the source of the noise across the internet. Put some time and effort into working out where the noise is coming from. Do you know how to use a length of hose to find noises?

Then the idle. I haven't seen such sudden, short, small changes in idle speed before. When my IACV is dirty/sticky and not responding to the ECU's drive signal properly, it will jump up to really high revs and behave much worse than that. Nonetheless, I would suggest that what you are seeing is the ECU responding to something changing (engine load caused by PS pump, possibly the rpm signal derived from the CAS) and simply driving the IACV more open/closed in response.

The revs if warm seem high. Did you make sure when you reconnected everything that it's all tight? Sounds like a hiss. That engine bay looks pretty weathered and I would hazard a guess and say some rubber hoses have split from being brittle after you moved the maf around.

5 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

CAS looks pretty weather beaten...maybe check the bearings? And of course clean the IACV.

Yeah, the idle air control valve was my first thought, but I wasn't entirely sure, considering the fact that when cold, it seems perfectly fine. I'll look into it tomorrow !

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Let's start with the obvious. You, that is you, will have to work out where that noise is coming from. It is probably unrelated to your idle problem. It sounds like it might be the power steering pump, or something else rotating down there, simply because of how it appeared to get louder when you pointed the camera there. But the CAS is in the same general area, and it could be noisy/dying bearings or some other rubbing problem in there. But we can't find the source of the noise across the internet. Put some time and effort into working out where the noise is coming from. Do you know how to use a length of hose to find noises?

Then the idle. I haven't seen such sudden, short, small changes in idle speed before. When my IACV is dirty/sticky and not responding to the ECU's drive signal properly, it will jump up to really high revs and behave much worse than that. Nonetheless, I would suggest that what you are seeing is the ECU responding to something changing (engine load caused by PS pump, possibly the rpm signal derived from the CAS) and simply driving the IACV more open/closed in response.

I'll start with trying to give the idle air control valve a clean up.

Also, I just noticed something strange. I was watching a video on cleaning up the IACV, and it mentioned unplugging the TPS connector and adjusting the IACV screw to set the idle. I checked on mine, and for some reason, the cable seems deleted, but the connector is still in. It was always like this, so I doubt it's THE issue, but still doesn't seem normal nonetheless !

Any thoughts about that ?

 

IMG_2556.jpg

2 hours ago, trel said:

The revs if warm seem high

It's idling at 600rpm. If anything, this is slightly low, not high.

6 minutes ago, GabRB26DETT said:

Also, I just noticed something strange. I was watching a video on cleaning up the IACV, and it mentioned unplugging the TPS connector and adjusting the IACV screw to set the idle. I checked on mine, and for some reason, the cable seems deleted, but the connector is still in. It was always like this, so I doubt it's THE issue, but still doesn't seem normal nonetheless !

Any thoughts about that ?

This is a major WTF!!!???!!??. The standard ECU needs the TPS. It cannot know you are at idle if it can't see ~0.45v coming back from the TPS. It also uses it elsewhere in the operational range to know about "accel pump" functionality, and so on.

 

7 minutes ago, GabRB26DETT said:

I'll start with trying to give the idle air control valve a clean up.

It won't be the IACV. As far as I can tell, it appears to be working. The way your tacho moves by small defined amounts looks like the idle speed is responding to the ECU changing the opening of teh IACV.

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

This is a major WTF!!!???!!??. The standard ECU needs the TPS. It cannot know you are at idle if it can't see ~0.45v coming back from the TPS. It also uses it elsewhere in the operational range to know about "accel pump" functionality, and so on.

That is the part that I don't get. It was working flawlessly before yesterday. I even looked at pictures sent by the seller before I bought it, and it was indeed this way. 

I mean, don't get me wrong, the car performs really great and sounds absolutely healthy whenever it's not idling, which confuses me.

 

Others have covered the idle issue..and they are right its bloody hard to diagnose on the internet.  Its a challenge for you and your mechanic.

Looking at all the white 'powder' in the engine bay plus the noise...I'd say you have [or have had in the past] a water pump issue.  Does it leak at all?

 

I just had another look. There are 2 loom plugs on these TPSs, and the lower one appears to be connected.

I have little direct experience with playing with these on vanilla RB25s. RB20s had a similar TPS, but the ECU used it differently. And the TPS on my 25Neo is essentially the same as vanilla 25, but I haven't had to mess with it. So I've forgotten which plug is which. You may have no real problem here, depending on what is disconnected.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...