Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Faulty boot release.-

Hi all, 

I'm in the uk and thought i would try you boys in Australia for some help as my 2004 skyline 350gt is a rare car here in the uk.- 

My boot release.- doesn't work by using the remote or switch on the dash

'I'm been thought my G35 disc and the Haynes manual and have worked out the Body Control unit sends a positive fed to boot lock to unlock. Also the dash release switch connects to earth and when pressed sends negative to the BCU to tell it to open boot. When i press the boot release on the remote i can hear a click from steering wheel area so i know it's receiving the signal ok.

My problem is the G35 isn't the same then it comes to wiring colours/position of pins in plugs and the boot release isn't in Haynes. I've rechecked all cables which fed into the boot ( i replaced every cable last year) and all fine. I have checked every wire one by one which connects to the BCU for the positive unlock boot fed when i press the remote and dash switches and nothing! I have also checked every wire for a negative fed from dash switch and again nothing.

So i thinking the BCU is faulty!

Any one have correct wiring details for a import? Any other ideas?

Thanks

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480761-boot-release-problems/
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, 57jam said:

Oh shit, how are you going to get in the boot!

 

Fingers crossed we get some replys.

Tell me about it, not good, I was thinking about wot u said n wen u said u run a positive from Battery to the lock it works, so my question is how do I do that ? "Run a positive" wots that, wot to use ? N where about on the lock do u attach it ? 

I didn't no u could do that but I'll give it a go that's for sure, if u can help me 57jam of cause.

Eager to hear back from u cheers brother.

It's basic electrics, so any auto electrician whose workshop doesn't look like a barnyard will be fine, I'm sure. Definitely the safest thing to do because if you don't understand low voltage electrics at a basic level, you could end up doing way more damage than just a snapped steel release cable.

There's no dark art to these things. It's button, solenoid, wiring or BCM. In 57jam's case, he seems to have ruled out wiring, buttons and solenoid. That's not a promising sign from a cost point of view.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...