Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all just wondering if anyone has experienced any issues with the npc twin plates. I drives fine but feels funny at high revs 8000+ it seems to get stuck to the floor a little when launching the car or changing gears quickly. My previous single plate npc clutch had no issues. Clutch is only 4000km old.

I also cracked my gearbox housing and lost 5th and reverse gear car is only pushing 400kw through a par straight cut gearbox.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480783-rb26-npc-twin-plate-clutch/
Share on other sites

I've got just a single plate NPC clutch that was supposed to be good for over 600hp, was slipping on the dyno around high 400's.

Current tune is around 420hp and haven't had any real issues but was disappointed with it slipping because it's the only thing holding me back from an e85 tune. Only went with them because people seemed to have no issues but I was let down.

I currently run a single 10" NPC clutch too and it's holding 407kW just fine.

You may need to adjust the clutch pedal as it might be riding the clutch ever so slightly.

In regards to the pedal sinking to the floor, are you still using the factory clutch damper? If so delete that POS ?

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I currently run a single 10" NPC clutch too and it's holding 407kW just fine.

You may need to adjust the clutch pedal as it might be riding the clutch ever so slightly.

In regards to the pedal sinking to the floor, are you still using the factory clutch damper? If so delete that POS ?

Yeah I just switched back to the single plate its holding fine so far, haven't launched the thing yet, are you running the standard gearbox still? If so how aggressive do you change into 3rd? It wasn't haven't this issue on the single plate it must be something wrong with the clutch, I did see rubbing marks on the springs of the clutch plate sending it back to npc.

I'm still running the standard gearbox, it's an Edward Lees special edition with close to 500k kms on it lol.

It's done 1x track day with the new motor and has exploded yet, has done over half a dozen track days with 372kW before the old motor let go.

I rarely smash it into 3rd hard, because it grinds every time above 7k rpm, so I need to literally ease it into 3rd when I shift and make sure I'm under 7k rpm. 

I wonder if you were also running the wrong bearing carrier which caused the throw out bearing to be riding on the pressure plate 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...