Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I just recently purchased a r33gtr and looking to get it tuned on 98 as I don’t want to go e85 I was hoping for 380kw atw on 98 do you guys thing it’s reliable to achieve this power with these old turbos mod list below

Starting with r33 block, r33 crank with n1 oil pump, eagle rods,wiseco pistons, arp main studs,acl race bearings, tomei 260 deg pon cams, cometic head gasket.

Trust t517z turbos wiyh trust hard pipe kit

Trust race intercooler, hks dump pipes and 3in exhaust

R33 twin synchro box with twin plate clutch.

Sard fuel pump with 720cc injectors and billet fuel rail, Sard fuel pressure reg

Brake vacuum chamber

Apexi power fc with z32 airflow meters

Trust boost controller, and turbo timer

Edited by Berksgtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/
Share on other sites

For reference, back in 2011 my 33 gtr with a built motor, good head t51r, full fuel system 1000cc injectors, and everything that should go with it was making 422kw on 20psi with 98

before going the full fuel system with surge tank and extra pump and to 4” exhaust, I think we maxed out out at 401 from memory.

Best bet would be to look through the dyno section for something with similar mods to you to get a reference of what to expect.

the end of the day a dyno is just numbers that can be fudged either way. True test of power is 1/4 mile

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937297
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies I just bought the car last week I know it’s an old set up I’m be holding the car for a long time and will change things gradually Ben c34 what needs work any recommendations as I don’t know which direction to go thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937310
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, Berksgtr said:

Thanks for the replies I just bought the car last week I know it’s an old set up I’m be holding the car for a long time and will change things gradually Ben c34 what needs work any recommendations as I don’t know which direction to go thanks

Immediately just lose the turbo timer so it doesn't give you problems one day. For the rest just try to track down a good tuner and post up the results!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937315
Share on other sites

Hang on, so does the car already have that list? Or is that to purchase?

 

No sane person would buy a power fc new nor those injectors considering the substantially better options available now. . If you already have them it's a different story.

 

 

And as above lose the turbo timer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937321
Share on other sites

Haha yeh wow. Genuinely had to check if this post was from 2003 ?

 

OP, if your car already has those mods then just get the car tuned and be happy with where it ends up knowing that there is plenty of money to be wasted in the future chasing more. 

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937324
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Immediately just lose the turbo timer so it doesn't give you problems one day. For the rest just try to track down a good tuner and post up the results!

Why get rid of the turbo timer? I thought they were a good thing for turbo engines to let them sit for a bit after driving before shutting off the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937328
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, nouveau_poor said:

let them sit for a bit after driving before shutting off the engine.

And this is something that you cannot do for yourself? After all, it only needs doing if the car has been working the turbo a bit hard in the last couple of minutes before stopping. It hardly needs to be run to cool down on about 95% of stops.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937331
Share on other sites

@Berksgtr It'll get close to 400 rwkw or 380ish awkw on 98. T517 is rated closely to -5s. Unopened 26s have hit that target. It'll just be a tad laggy by todays standards. Will still be good. Gotta start somewhere! Congrats on the car :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937338
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

And this is something that you cannot do for yourself? After all, it only needs doing if the car has been working the turbo a bit hard in the last couple of minutes before stopping. It hardly needs to be run to cool down on about 95% of stops.

fair enough sure, but why get rid of the timer if he's already got it? The other post sounded like the timer itself would cause an issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937354
Share on other sites

Can attest to the shittness of turbo timers, I had one in the Skyline as a young pup. Caused all sorts of issues from not starting, to not switching off when the countdown reached 0, to being a parasitic drain on the battery, etc. Even after pulling it out, the loom has been hacked into, there's no making that reliable again. Its one of the reasons I undertook a complete rewire of my car.

 

Stupid things. Feel embarrassed to have had one. As GTSBoy says, try to think of the last time you boosted your car hard and then switched the engine off. It just doesn't happen, there is always 1 or 2 minutes of sedate driving before you park up that is far more effective than 30 seconds of idling. Superbly ricer modification.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480867-400kw-goal/#findComment-7937363
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...