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Hey everyone, I was wondering if someone could please point me in the direction of where I can purchase a reputable OEM R33 GTR gearbox rebuild kit? At the moment I'm still shopping around for an AWD gearbox, however I'd like to get a better idea expense wise for the cost of the rebuild before jumping at anything. I have been looking at this kit: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Complete-Gearbox-Rebuild-Kit-inc-Synchros-For-R33-GTR-Skyline-RB26DETT/153515049211?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D1f3399f954174a4b8cf4d1166092d1a3%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D283966302339%26itm%3D153515049211%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A2d1df879-d481-11ea-a68c-0e4baf4fb02f|parentrq%3Aada5b9541730a6e67f538151ffdcd7f4|iid%3A1

Sold by a business in the UK called Conceptua Tuning that as far as I know have their own brand of OEM parts "Kenjutsu Racing Lab" although I do have some slight scepticism, because I'm unable to find any feedback in regards to their rebuild kits.

I'd like to just state ahead of time that I don't plan on purchasing an aftermarket gearset for the time being, as I'm only in the early stages of my RB & GTR driveline swapped Datsun 260Z project.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Don't know about that kit specifically but after buying a 2nd hand box, rebuild kit and labour costs, it may not make economical sense considering new gearboxes are around 3000 - 3500 aud. There is also a lot of parts in a 2nd hand box that may be worn and not incuded in that rebuild kit either. Unless you know what you're doing and rebuilding it yourself, probably not worth the hassle and uncertainty.

That company has been around a while and as far as i know theyre not shit...but i pieced together oem nissan stuff for a little less than their kit. Although was a bit of dicking around to do. 

As above though, you will likely find things like worn couplers/gear teeth once the box is apart. Going whole box brand new would be good idea if you have the extra $$

I was going to reply when you first posted this as there is no real "complete" rebuild kit for a gearbox. There is way too much stuff going on for that. You really need to know what you are looking for to repair them, or you take it to a professional. As Hardsteppa mentioned gears on the main shaft are frequently rooted. We just did the old man's GTR box last month and 1st and 2nd were fked. Have a look at the sides of the gear selector section, they should look like arrow heads, unlike these. Also if there is selector teeth completely missing and your drain plug or looks like this, things are bad. New synchro noted on left, one on right stuffed.

 

IMG_20200620_153727_5.thumb.jpg.c40692e51fa361aa3f2793b04e0dbcc7.jpgIMG_20200624_162758_3.thumb.jpg.9e3fec13796dfc9efe718ab0b9cb3ecd.jpgIMG_20200620_152508_8.thumb.jpg.430a846425aa1ec71a94c53d6868b1e8.jpg

IMG_20200620_152522_2.jpg

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
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