Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

I have bought a Bee R rev limiter ( I know they break engines, its just for a one off event)  and I'm having some serious troubles wiring it into my R34 Gt (NA). So far I have my my yellow wire connected to pin 44 and 45 (tried both) Green is Connected to 46 and my power and ground wires are correct. The car starts and Runs with this set up but does not limit revs regardless of gain or rev 1/2 settings. Ive tried switching the the green and yellow wire and the car would only start if gain was set to 0 and as soon as gain was 1 or more it would stall. Has anyone else had this problem? if so how did you over come it.

Edit; I have just noticed Pin 44 and 45 join a little brown box further down the loom. does this have anything to do with it?

Thanks 

Edited by joshbarnes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480902-bee-r-rev-limiter-not-working/
Share on other sites

  1. Chuck in bin
  2. OR:
  3. Bee-R Website instructions are wrong - they know, Brooksie has told them they're sorting it
  4. Takakaira Website is also wrong - they copied the Bee-R website
These are the correct wiring instructions

WIRING

Yellow Wire - 120' pin on ECU

Green Wire - 1' pin on ECU

Red Wire - 12V IGN pin on ECU

Black Wire - Ground (On PowerFC's you may need to add an extra earth from this pin to the PowerFC chassis for extra earthing).

White Wire - Attaches to the Handbrake On wire that goes to the dash if you want to activate the Launch Control feature

ECU pin outs


R34GTT

Yellow - 44 or 45
Green - 46
Red - 67
Black - 25

R34GTR - I don't have an ECU pinout for this so I can't tell you, hopefully this'll be sorted fairly soon

CONTROL BOX WIRING

White Wire Loop - This activates the 2nd white dial which allows you to set a secondary rev limit which only comes on when the handbrake is on and is mostly used as Launch Control. Cut the loop if you don't want to use it

Grey Wire Loop - Leave this alone, only cut for 4 cylinder cars

Brown Loop - Leave this alone, only cut if you have a rotary engine

CONTROL UNIT

Red Dial - sets normal Engine Rev Limit (see below)

White Dial - sets Handbrake/Launch Control Rev Limit (see Below)

Yellow Dial - Sets the Gain or how big the Bang is (0 = off, 1 = very quiet & F = WW3 image.gif.f8bb9cf6deedcdd2c917f24b3f85ebc4.gif - try a middle setting and adjust to your peference)

The 0-F settings match upto these Revs

0 2500
1 3000
2 3500
3 4000
4 4500
5 5000
6 5500
7 6000
8 6500
9 7000
A 7500
B 8000
C 8500
D 9000
E 9500
F 10000

TESTING & PROBLEMS

Normal Test - With the car warmed up (very important) set the Red Dial to 5, the gain at 9 and the white dial to 3 (only if using the handbrake option). Now without the handbrake on gently rev the car and at 5000rpm the car should start back-firing and the red light on the control unit should flash

Handbrake/Launch Control Test - Put the handbrake on and gently rev the car and at 4000rpm the car should start back-firing and the red light on the control unit should flash.

If it does then everything is set up and you can now adjust the dials to your own preference.

Problems - Car doesn't start - swap the Yellow and Green around (shouldn't happen now the instructions are right)

Hope that sorts everything out..........................................IanH
 
 
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
×
×
  • Create New...