Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

 

im trying to fit 19” x8” +30 on my Gtt, though with 245/40’s they hit the suspension arm(can’t remember name) inner side of wheel!

ive read Gtr have no problem with 19” rims.

Is this because the hub protrudes further out than on a Gtt? Or is the arm longer?

any help appreciated!

also wound going to a235/35 tyre fit?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480931-r34-gtt-and-gtr-wheel-hubs/
Share on other sites

Um.... the 19" part of it should make no difference to this problem at all. Although it does depend on what exactly is hitting where.

But first.....8" wide wheels with a +30 offset should fit without hitting anything. People put R33 GTR wheels on these cars all the time. They are 17x8 +30. No problems. Usually an 8" wide wheel will be done with a +35 or +38 offset which would be MORE LIKELY to hit the suspension than a +30 would, and these are fine too.

And no, the difference between 17" and 19" wheels should not make any difference here. Again, except for one issue, which we will cover next.

19" wheels with 245/40 tyres on them have a total diameter of 678.6mm. The more-or-less-correct size for these cars is a 235/45 on a 17" rim (or other combos that are approximately the same). That size wheel & tyre has an OD of 643.3mm. So the tyres you're trying to squeeze into that wheel well are 35mm overall bigger, or they stick out radially from the centre of the hub by an extra 17mm. So this is where we come back to where I said earlier, "It depends on what exactly is hitting where".

Now, I refuse to believe that any part of the wheel is hitting on anything (so long as the wheel specs you have given are correct). But I am perfectly willing to believe that the tyre diameter is just too big and you are able to hit stuff that you shouldn't if you have the correct size tyre.

The correct size tyre, at 245 wide on that 19" rim, would be 235/35. That would give an OD of 647mm, which is only slightly bigger than "correct". There aren't really any alternatives around those sizes that won't be either drastically too wide or too small in sidewall height.

Hey,

Wow thanks for the reply!

Ok so I don’t actually mean the rim itself is the problem! The tyre is what hits the part just above the tyre! at 245/40/19. Think it’s called upright? Joins to the wishbone with bush!

actually v35 forged rays rims! Which are +30 offset! 19x8”

Anyway I’m thinking going 235/35 tyres might clear everything!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...