Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for a recommendations for good Victorian panel beater to do some work on a R33 GT-R.

Going through the threads on here I found MiColour recommended in the past but looks like they might have closed back in 2017? Is there anyone in here with recent experiences of taking their Skylines or GT-Rs to a panel shop and have had a good experience (and would be happy to recommend them)?

I have damaged rear quarter panel I need some work done on.

And also where the hell is everyone going to discuss their Skylines/ GT-Rs these days?!? It's bloody dead in here!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480964-if-anyone-is-still-in-here/
Share on other sites

I've had Imperial Finish Body Works in Springvale do both insurance work and touch-up work and I've always been happy.  But it has been about 10 years since I've needed them do anything. So I can't give you a recent review.

  • 1 month later...

SAU has died in the a$$ with the advent of Facebook. All the GTR pages there are thriving. Heaps of GTRs owners from all over Aus connecting and heaps of parts going round..a tonne of experience too and quick replies. There's some old threads here full of helpful info but unfortunately as Skylines have aged and mostly disappeared so has SAU....I occasionally check the 'for sale' threads here but even they're dead.

On 8/15/2020 at 4:48 AM, 20thousandRPM said:

And also where the hell is everyone going to discuss their Skylines/ GT-Rs these days?!? It's bloody dead in here!

And your MAGNIFICENT contribution to this site, 10 posts in 9 years... go and complain on bookface,you are just another oxygen thief

  • 8 months later...

I don’t believe the gtr or import scene is dead. Its just evolved, and cat culture is now moving to a younger generation of people and cars. 90s and early 2000s imports are more expensive because everyone who had them back in the day want them again and will pay to dollar, while the younger drivers with not a lot of money can’t afford them and are switching to 86s and Golfs and Renaults. It’s not a bad thing, it’s just a passing of the torch.

It also has to do with the advent of forums vs social media/IG etc.

The communities foster different types of content, with current social media being along the lines of instant communication whereas a forum is more like email.

In depth discussion/technical information is pointless via IG/FB groups, but things like build threads or very quick questions work really well there. People generally do gravitate to asking very quick things on very complicated concepts (lol) which explains why people are there.

The amount of times I've written a massive reply to a very ill thought out quick question is kinda staggering. The sad thing is I'd have to do it many many many times on a platform like that, as opposed to this which is far more stable/searchable/centrally accessed. Generally the posts here follow the topic/question whereas in SM they follow the poster/person.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you already have the engine cross member to match and likely gearbox mount to. The SR20 has a head start on the RB in this case. They handle GREAT with an SR20, lots of fun.   One I did back in the day
    • have no doubt and wanted too trust me and may regret later not necessarily worried about weight (would be 8 kg ish total) it was more the $$ to do it properly is about $6 - $7K in hardwear need long 310mm stroke jacks etc - plus install and call me whatever im not doing it myself even if wanted too cant weld etc  - thats $10K installed vs fraction of that cost while Ive spent some money on this POS I actually really dont like doing so unless its got a large chance to make me go faster 😁 hey in still carting this things around on a 15 yr old rusted open trailer so I can spend on racing not buy a new trailer to look better the manual jacks Ive had done are heavy and take space but are transportable and usable anywhere - taking or organizing even compressed air let alone nitrogen which is more whats needed coming from Perth to Winton or Sydney or the like honestly just adds to my brain headaches/ hurts of organisation also ha 15 mins job will get down to 2 - 5 min job vs 1 min job for airjacks - all tradeoffs I spose
    • Purely out of curiosity, how do you know all this @dbm7? Do you work with automatic gearboxes professionally? This goes way way way beyond "I've had an automatic Skyline once and did some mucking around"
    • I'll just reiterate that it's best to do all the wiring diagnostics, before even thinking about buying replacement solenoids ~ that is, be absolutely sure the solenoid is bad.....ie; bad connector(s), rodents chewed through a wire, etc etc. If you don't so this, you can fork out all the money for solenoids, only to find something else is wrong (this'll make you cry if you pull the valvebody only to find a broken wire is at fault... ...some more glue on the solenoid packs -- this is the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly.... ...these are all shift solenoids ~ ostensibly they're the same as the shift solenoids from the 4-speed auto.... ...this is the RE4R01A solenoid set... ...with these, you have 3 shift solenoids attached to the plate, and the separate solenoid is the EPC solenoid (line pressure control) -- with both designs, the TC lockup clutch solenoid (also PWM so they could slide the clutch shut), is located on the lower valvebody half.... ...(story time)...back in the 90's, it was a common fault that the EPC solenoid (or TC-lock solenoid) would fail, but Nissan only sold them as part of the assembly (think ~$350 at the time) ~ thing was, Isuzu also used these boxes in light commercials, and you could buy the PWM solenoid as a separate part, so it was possible to buy/use that solenoid (around $65), and make it fit (remove the circlip, fit to old plate and deal with wiring)...making it a more cost effective repair. I've not seen the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly, but with the 4-speed RE4R01A it was possible to hack/fit a single shift solenoid onto an other working set, using a donor solenoid from another set with failed EPC....(by rights the whole set should be replaced), but it ends up being a question of how much life is left in the box itself ; sometimes it's a viable repair to fix one solenoid, just to get another 100k of road miles out of it before it needs first overhaul...other times the box is that old/worn, you're as well doing first overhaul and replacing the solenoids and starting fresh... What Nissan did here with the 5-speed, was relocate the EPC solenoid to the lower valvebody (next to the TC lockup solenoid), and stuck the direct-drive clutch solenoid (for the extra gear) where the EPC solenoid used to be on the 4-speed....I can only imagine they did this for serviceability ; the PWM solenoids are most likely to fail, and it's a doddle to drop the pan and change these out (as opposed to dropping the valvebody itself to get at a top mounted EPC)... ...also keep in mind, that some BMW 3/5 series & Mazda (and maybe some Ford/Mazda rebadges, not sure), also used the RE5R01A box under a different name/part number...not saying parts availability is any better, but sometimes it helps to know this when it comes to NOS floating about in the EU.... HTH  
    • FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline  - they make quick work a breeze
×
×
  • Create New...