Haltech Elite 2500 : Wiring up Flex Fuel R33 GTR

[cachorro]

I was on my way installing my flex fuel setup on my Elite 2500 but upon further doing, I figured I cannot hijack my OEM FPCM wiring because it seems this pins to a Digital Pulse output (B25-B26) on the Haltech and I need to pin it to a Synchronized Pulsed input (B8-B9). Does anybody know what pin on the R33 GTR connector I can tap into for a SPI signal? I'm running the PNP harness. I don't see this information anywhere. Any other approaches i'm not seeing would be appreciated

[r32-25t]

On the pnp harness adaptor there is a plug that has spare wires/pins hanging out of it and one of them is a digitally pulsed input, you need to put the signal wire into that and then go into your haltech software and tell the ecu which pin you have put it on

[cachorro]

3 hours ago, r32-25t said:

On the pnp harness adaptor there is a plug that has spare wires/pins hanging out of it and one of them is a digitally pulsed input, you need to put the signal wire into that and then go into your haltech software and tell the ecu which pin you have put it on

I’m not exactly sure what you’re referring to. I don’t see spare wires/pins hanging out of my PNP harness

Are you talking about one of the spare ports on the ECU?

Edited August 16, 2020 by cachorro

[r32-25t]

There are 3 black plugs in the back of your pnp adaptor  the smallest plug (16 pin) is full of spare inputs and outputs. Use your supplied instructions to find the correct input and hook it into that 

[cachorro]

9 hours ago, r32-25t said:

There are 3 black plugs in the back of your pnp adaptor  the smallest plug (16 pin) is full of spare inputs and outputs. Use your supplied instructions to find the correct input and hook it into that 

Thanks for the input. Yes, i'm on the same page. I've seen that and B8 is exactly what i'm trying to tap into. What's missing is that I'm using the PNP harness to plug to the OEM connector. To pin into B8, I'm trying to find out what pin on my OEM ECU connector that would translate to and that's what i'm having trouble with. I would like to avoid having to splice into the haltech PNP harness

Please help me understand if there's something i'm missing

Edited August 16, 2020 by cachorro

[cachorro]

Upon second look, I do I simply have to tap into position 7 (B8) on the 16 port plug? 

[r32-25t]

Yes 

[cachorro]

I see now. My obstacle is tapping into this 16 pin connector. I cannot take it apart to pin into it

[cachorro]

3 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Yes 

Do you know how to tap into the aux 16 pin connector? I can't seem to piece it apart to stick the pin signal in it

[BK]

Look on Haltech how to do it, as your Flex 12v (not 5v), GND and SPI pins should all go to this AUX connector. You don't pull the connector apart. You crimp your wire on and insert it from the rear into the connector. Be careful though, before inserting pin into connector there is a tab on the back that you lift up, then push back down to lock into position. You won't seat the pin properly without doing this. Also the pins are a prick to crimp, as they are meant for 20awg wire and need the correct crimper, or be extremely skilled with long nose pliers. Not really for the novice

[cachorro]

17 hours ago, BK said:

Look on Haltech how to do it, as your Flex 12v (not 5v), GND and SPI pins should all go to this AUX connector. You don't pull the connector apart. You crimp your wire on and insert it from the rear into the connector. Be careful though, before inserting pin into connector there is a tab on the back that you lift up, then push back down to lock into position. You won't seat the pin properly without doing this. Also the pins are a prick to crimp, as they are meant for 20awg wire and need the correct crimper, or be extremely skilled with long nose pliers. Not really for the novice

Cheers, this really helps. I've even called Haltech and they've expressed what a PITA this tyco 16 pin connector is.

I'll be relocating the ground to ECU but I think i'll keep the power tapped to the fuel pump relay. I hope this won't Do you think this will be a problem?

Edited August 17, 2020 by cachorro

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Because it's a digital signal, you should be okay not using sensor GND. For sensors such as temperature, pressure, analogue inputs then you must use sensor power and sensor ground so there are no voltage offsets.

[BK]

On 17/08/2020 at 7:40 AM, cachorro said:

I see now. My obstacle is tapping into this 16 pin connector. I cannot take it apart to pin into it

Hi mate. I saw your post on the Haltech forum about the 16 pin connector. Refer to my earlier post, I said "lift up", not lift up and completely remove the centre tab bit. It's not supposed to move far. After looking at what you've done to the connector you've probably stuffed it, as that centre part is not supposed to come right out, and won't, unless there is no pins in it. I'd be replacing the entire thing now.

It's just a lock for the pins. You stick something sharp to flick it up no more than a mm just to release it, put your pin in, hear it click, and then snap the tab back down. Click

Do you even have a crimper that will do the pin ? As I said it's pretty specific. I good one that works and is cheaper than an AMP / TYCO crimper is the Jaycar one. You want something that doesn't ratchet for such small pins. Note the small end part-

Works well.

[cachorro]

2 hours ago, BK said:

Hi mate. I saw your post on the Haltech forum about the 16 pin connector. Refer to my earlier post, I said "lift up", not lift up and completely remove the centre tab bit. It's not supposed to move far. After looking at what you've done to the connector you've probably stuffed it, as that centre part is not supposed to come right out, and won't, unless there is no pins in it. I'd be replacing the entire thing now.

It's just a lock for the pins. You stick something sharp to flick it up no more than a mm just to release it, put your pin in, hear it click, and then snap the tab back down. Click

Do you even have a crimper that will do the pin ? As I said it's pretty specific. I good one that works and is cheaper than an AMP / TYCO crimper is the Jaycar one. You want something that doesn't ratchet for such small pins. Note the small end part-

Works well.

I actually ended up practicing removing the existing pins in the connector by removing them and reinserting them making sure they lock, based on instruction I received from Haltech. I have it down now. I'm awaiting for the below crimper which seems acceptable for the job. I hope i'm all set now to finish the job for the upcoming weekend.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WSCJVMD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[DaymoR32]

you dont want something that ratchets when you work on tiny pins, i havent done any automotive wiring. i have however built 3d printers up that use similar style dupont/JST/Microfit connectors. best tool for the job in my opinion (non ratcheting) is something like an engineers PA-09

https://rhinotools.com.au/product/pa-09-micro-terminal-crimper/

[BK]

Exactly. Ratcheting crimpers with small pins suck. You can instantly release your grip and correct if your not quite lined up with springs loaded non ratchet.

[cachorro]

On 8/19/2020 at 1:22 AM, BK said:

Exactly. Ratcheting crimpers with small pins suck. You can instantly release your grip and correct if your not quite lined up with springs loaded non ratchet.

I was actually pleasantly surprised by the set I bought. Solid crimps. Flex fuel is now live. Cheers gents.

One more question:

The aux connectors have 4 wires attached to the ECU and it came like that from Haltech. Does anybody know what exactly these are for? It looks like pins 6, 5, 14, and 13.

 

Pin 5 looks like its for VVT output which I don't have

Pin 6 looks is a spare output

Same for 13 and 14

I was wondering if I can remove them to have the aux output only attached to sensors through out the car (and not the ECU as well)