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From Memory it physically clashes with the engine mount bracket when you try spin it out as it has an offset in it.

 

Theoretically you could support the engine and remove the mount to do it though.

  On 30/08/2020 at 2:38 AM, r32-25t said:

Undo the engine mount nut, Jack the engine up on the passenger side, remove the alloy bracket from the block, remove the oil drain pipe, 

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Thanks. It’s ok if I leave the driver’s side bolted?

  On 30/08/2020 at 3:18 AM, cachorro said:

Thanks. It’s ok if I leave the driver’s side bolted?

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Yes just make sure the jack is right on the edge of the sump on the passenger side 

  On 30/08/2020 at 2:38 AM, r32-25t said:

Undo the engine mount nut, Jack the engine up on the passenger side, remove the alloy bracket from the block, remove the oil drain pipe, 

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May I ask how you’ve managed to remove the mount this way? I’ve done this and have loosened up the mount but it is still lodged between the stud and the block...

9E2C0E6B-4DA3-4D85-840D-83C93B8C5403.jpeg

Question is, why remove front fitting for single turbo ? To use the rear or fit a dash fitting to the front ? Most use that front fitting for turbo oil return and remove rear one, blanking it with a plate. Makes way more sense than using the rear.

So I guess you are removing it to fit a 3/4 to an10 or 12 fitting for braided line ?

  On 31/08/2020 at 1:38 AM, BK said:

Question is, why remove front fitting for single turbo ? To use the rear or fit a dash fitting to the front ? Most use that front fitting for turbo oil return and remove rear one, blanking it with a plate. Makes way more sense than using the rear.

So I guess you are removing it to fit a 3/4 to an10 or 12 fitting for braided line ?

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Yeah, that's exactly what i'm doing. Removing the front one to fit a 3/4 BSP to -10AN for the oil return. The rear one is getting blocked as well.

Anyways, for future reference, I ended up jacking it up even a little higher and swiveling out with some muscle. It's doable

Edited by cachorro

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