Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys, me again with the non running vq25det stagea, starting to nail down on components trying to diagnose my issue and noticed something while removing and cleaning my crank sensor

i noticed metal fragments on the magnetic part of the sensor, so i cleaned then off, refitted the sensor and tried to give it a strart, and i noticed for the first time in a while it fired and tried to start on the first try, but on the second and third there was no fire, so i took out the sensor again, cleaned it again and same thing, fired first try, still no start, but on second and thirrd try its again not firing

so my question is, could my sensor be faulty? what else could be causing this?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481149-m35-stagea-crank-but-no-start/
Share on other sites

Its usually crank or cam sensors.

Google instructions on how to pull fault codes from the ecu and it should pinpoint which sensor it is. There's a dance you do with the acc pedal and ignition key. Best to use a stopwatch when trying to do it. All info is available on this site via Google.

  • Like 1

@admS15 thankyou very much, i have just done that and came back with a code of 0115, which is 'Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction" everything i see says that wont stop the car from starting though, it will just run rough until it warms up? i have tried to erase the code using the mentioned method on the forum, and that has not worked (yet).. none the less, thankyou very much for the tip! i shall keep trying to diagnose the issue, or call lube or something

35 minutes ago, Gibbsygoodness said:

@admS15 thankyou very much, i have just done that and came back with a code of 0115, which is 'Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction" everything i see says that wont stop the car from starting though, it will just run rough until it warms up? i have tried to erase the code using the mentioned method on the forum, and that has not worked (yet).. none the less, thankyou very much for the tip! i shall keep trying to diagnose the issue, or call lube or something

Try unplugging the coolant temp sensor and then try starting

@admS15 thanks again, and i hate to be that guy, but do you know where i could find the sensor? i believe its near the thermostat but i cant seem to find anything besides what seems to be a broken plug, which could be both what im looking for and my issue

There's a pipe at the rear of the engine that connects the two banks, the coolant sensor is in that. It could also be the wiring that goes to the sensor, that should be inspected. Here is a diagram with the location highlighted.

1567665588862_big.png

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey @admS15, thanks for that tip, was a pain to remove but i got it, now here's what happened.

after removing just the plug from the sensor, it started almost no hesitation a ran rather fine besides a slight miss, so i took the sensor out and down to sprint auto, grabbed a new one as they're rather cheap, i was supplied with a cts-031 which seems to be correct and once i fitted it, it did start and run for a while but cut out after a few minutes and it looked like the temp gauge wasn't working either, but once again it continued to not start after that, i again removed the plug from the sensor and it started again but ran rough.. not quite sure where to go from here, the opinion from my group is spark plugs and coil packs but again i just really don't know

Man, im out of ideas. Have you checked the wiring loom going to the sensor. Your original code was relating to coolant temp circuit. The new sensor you got may not be 100% compatible either. I like to use genuine Nissan stuff for troubleshooting. You could go to a wreckers yard and try match up a sensor out of another Nissan like a Maxima or pulsar etc. 

Would be good to check what the actual sensor is reading. A scan tool that can read m35's will required (consult or snap on). There is a phone app that works via Bluetooth obd adaptor (elm 327) called hobdrive. The demo version should enable you to see what the temp is doing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...