Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These are the tail lights from my E90. I have replaced the drivers side one previously so these two light housings come from 2 different cars.

What the hell is causing them to melt? The passenger side light lets so much light from the brake into the indicator it looks like its on! 

I'm assuming a manufacturing defect, but this plastic is super hard. It'd take some crazy temps to melt it.

 

PXL_20200916_064752715.jpg

PXL_20200916_064746911.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481165-what-causes-lights-to-melt/
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Wrong globes?

Is that a thing? I can't imagine that most tail light bulbs would be that much different? I just bought all new bulbs and they are each 21w in the tail lights. 4 of them. Most of the  other bulb holes seem ok (but not all)

I'm with GTSBoy on this one. 12W are tail/parker globes and 21W are for brake light globes. A stop/tail globe will have dual filament 12/21W filaments. Just be sure to double check that you're not putting single filament globes where double filament globes are supposed to go and vice versa.

15 hours ago, PranK said:

All the bulbs in the tail are the same

When I bought my E36, I noticed one taillight was much brighter. On inspection it had a 21W bulb in the tailight position which had melted a big hole in the inner reflector.

It's very unusual. Taillights are usually 5W. Some are brighter at 12W. But a 21W globe is real brakelight territory. Brakelights are always much brighter than any permanently lit rear light, for obvious reasons.

I would be tempted to distrust the Narva et al listings and possibly being contaminated with false data from some common/root source. Go ask BMW directly perhaps?

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

It's very unusual. Taillights are usually 5W. Some are brighter at 12W. But a 21W globe is real brakelight territory. Brakelights are always much brighter than any permanently lit rear light, for obvious reasons.

I would be tempted to distrust the Narva et al listings and possibly being contaminated with false data from some common/root source. Go ask BMW directly perhaps?

I did check a heap of sources. I'll email my local BMW service and see what they say.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
    • You can get them with the worm drive rotator but I was too tight to pay another $250-$300 so manual labour it is! I don't think it will be too hard to rotate though. 
    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...