Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 minutes ago, BK said:

No, you have to run a separate MAP sensor on Power FC purely for the boost control side mate, the boost control does not use the engine load MAPs which are tapped into the 2 X AFM signal wires. So on a GTR d Jetro you end up having three Apexi MAP sensors on an RB26.

Where can you plug that into though? As the plug for it on the ECU is already used with the other map sensor.. and I am running a hks t51r single .

Edited by Hudeani_r32
21 minutes ago, Hudeani_r32 said:

I don't have any 2 pin wire there to do that! That's the problem. The gts doesn't have the same boost solenoid as the gtr. Has one over by the turbo. But as that loom as been changed for the gtr along with the battery connector loom I don't have that either. All there is is that 3 pin cable where the correct 2 pin should be!

Why is this so hard?

Run a new 2 core cable from the ECU adapter out to the engine bay and put a matching plug and socket onto it and the boost solenoid. You know, manually, like with your hands. A little actual wiring, not just plugging shit together.

12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Why is this so hard?

Run a new 2 core cable from the ECU adapter out to the engine bay and put a matching plug and socket onto it and the boost solenoid. You know, manually, like with your hands. A little actual wiring, not just plugging shit together.

Would rather not have to cut up the ECU harness that's why. Would rather of used the factory wires if they were there. But as they are not I'm asking for help on other options. Would rather replace my broken stand alone boost controller than hack up the harness lol. Only went for the Apexi as I thought the garage had fitted the whole gtr loom as I supplied them with it including the fuse box side of things. But looks like they haven't. Even though the battery cables have been changed for the new ones.. that's why I was confused in not seeing the factory 2 pin for the solenoid. 

to be honest, I think you are best getting someone to do the install for you. The process is reasonably straightforward but I guess you aren't confident to do it so best get some help rather than get it wrong and blow your motor up

The connection from the PFC to the solenoid is 2 wires, but it is not plug an play. Any auto electrical person should be able to look after that part.

You also need a pre throttle boost source for the map sensor, which needs 3 wires back to the ECU too.

31 minutes ago, Duncan said:

to be honest, I think you are best getting someone to do the install for you. The process is reasonably straightforward but I guess you aren't confident to do it so best get some help rather than get it wrong and blow your motor up

The connection from the PFC to the solenoid is 2 wires, but it is not plug an play. Any auto electrical person should be able to look after that part.

You also need a pre throttle boost source for the map sensor, which needs 3 wires back to the ECU too.

I'm more than confident in doing the work. Done most of the work on the car myself. And the kit is plug and play if I had the stock wire as it has the same plug. Even if it wasn't the same plug I can happily change them to ones that match. The problem is I don't have that wire to do so. And would rather not cut up a perfectly good harness after having problems with a hacked up one from its life in Japan! What I want to know is exactly where on the loom the cable for the gtr stock boost solenoid is. And if I can in even fit the gtr loom from the fuse box side into my gtst and it work. Everyone seems to be ignoring the questions I have asked! I know where it should be fitted And how to fit it. But I don't have that option so need advice on what else I can do. 

40 minutes ago, Hudeani_r32 said:

exactly where on the loom the cable for the gtr stock boost solenoid is

It's not on the engine loom. It's on the driver's side engine bay body loom. You don't have it. The wires are not there. Stop looking for them and start plumbing in the cable that you are going to need.

Plus, you're not having up any ECU loom. You're just going to stitch 2 wires into the PFC boost controller.

15 hours ago, Hudeani_r32 said:

The gts doesn't have the same boost solenoid as the gtr. Has one over by the turbo.

This is wrong. Because, as I posted MUCH earlier

 

23 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

There is no "standard boost controller cable" on an R32 GTSt. They didn't have a boost control solenoid, so......they didn't have a cable for it.

 

The Apexi solenoid basically needs 12v to one side of the solenoid (usually powered from IGN pin 45) and then switches to ground at the ecu at pin 25 for the pulsing of the solenoid to bleed air.

pinout-nissan-rb26dett.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...